Helen Hunt Jackson 1880 diary transcription
Ms 0020, Box 5, Diary 5, transcribed by Gloria J. Helmuth, June, 1998
[Inscribed:]
Mrs. Wm. S. Jackson
Brevoort House
New York
Care - Baring Bros.
London
Please forward to the
above address - -
Thursday, January 1, 1880
continued from June 22 -
Ludow hide - yellow poppies & sweet Williams & border - rhododendrons - white rose in the old lady’s cap - streets of town all in a twisted slants & short - flowers in meadows & in little yards - alleys - flights of steps - musk every where - old church - nice English girl showed us - stained window - votives on cross beams - & at heads of pillars - described by Wordsworth -
curious Epitaph in wall - old chaind book in Cemetery of Erasmus. -
Showers while we were out - - - - - - - took in chair and cushions - put them out again at dusk - at nine o’clock - the hills looked as if they were lightly washed in in gray as a pale sky - only
sounds the boats & boatmen - Little buttons[?] nearly died laughing while he waited at dinner.
“Miffling County United States Pennsylvania, America - (N.A.) - Two friends who went to America settled in Australia & went in sheep business, doing very well.”
*Friday, January 2, 1880
[original entry]
went to NY by rail - reached Mrs. Bottas at 9 P.m. -
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200 boats at pier - scow boats- sailboats - tiny steamboats - boats blossom out in scarlet curtains in dry weather - shut up at night & in storms.
Stone walls with small leaved ivy - netted over them - wild geranium growing in them as well as on the ground - berries growing on tree trunks - Salulation Hotel at Ambleride - all hotels S.H.S; - every boy & man lifts his right hand at sight of you as mechanically as the planets move in their orbits! - basket bottoms behind washstands - brass trundles with melon shaped cushions for headboards -
School teacher at Ullswater - 50 pounds a year - offered 65 pounds more to go to Leeds - refused - “no temptation” to him to give up this & scenery.
Saturday, January 3, 1880
In room all day -
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Clough - a monument “a remembrance in his own country”
“He is placed as his mothers grave - by those to whom life was made happy by his presence & his love - he is buried in Florence -- 1861 - age 42! - 20 yrs ago -
“Now dearest that thy brow are cold
We for thee what thou art & know
Thy likeness - the wind below -
Thy kindred with the great of old.!”--
William Wordsworth
Mary Wordsworth
Dora - who married Ed. Williams - second wife - only 8 yrs younger than her father
Sunday, January 4, 1880
[added material]
G------ Church
to the memory of
William Wordsworth
A true philosopher & poet
who by this special gift & calling of
Almighty God
Whether he discoursed on Man or Nature
Failed not to lift up the heart
To Holy things
Tired not of maintaining the cause
of the poor & simple
And so in perilous times was raised up
To be a chief minister
Not only of noblest poesy-
But of high & sound truth! -
- old black rafters -
white washed stone -
- Degrees of Marriage -
Mathew Lord Arch Bishop of Canterbury - in 1732 - whom a man may not marry - his grandmother or his grandfathers wife
Monday, January 5, 1880
Mr. Clark called in P.M. -
“ Leedsin A.M.
Mr. Brooks to dinner. --
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Wonderful drive through meadows - through vales - along Dumont water - Hotel at base of wooded hills - thread of Lodore in sight - wild rose & alder blossoms behind two gooseberry patties! -
Tuesday, January 6, 1880
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In a.m. went to old book shop - winding stone stairs worn into hollows - old ragged carpet on them - old man who was born in Ayr - Drove out to New Haven - sun all gray - dirtied land & ships & sky all gray - narrow bit of shore between two harbors - old houses of fishermen - roofs hollowed - red tiled - stairs up to doors in 2d story - fishwoman with full short petticoats - woollen cloaks - white night caps - two baskets one deep the other a shallow one resting on it. Both held by broad strap around the head -
one old woman coming home with baskets empty - strap around the breast
“Oh troons?”
& All a hundred pounds.” -
- woman with baby - all in white - asleep - proud - only 4 weeks old - white haired
woman gossiping with her - do you remember when it was all open brae? - “Im not so old as I look my hair wasn’t white”
Wednesday, January 7, 1880
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did not ask her why - old woman with yellow hair -
Ah she remembered it all
green fields & gardens on one side this street -
seventeen children gathered in a minute - threw out pennies for them - scattered like ants - six boys all on their knees bends in one center like spokes of a wheel! -
Women keep all the money for the fish - my driver said - stopped & asked - of a group - yes, they all said - two young and handsome --------- - one old -
The men come home & take their sleep - & then they must be off -
“Its all spent in the hoos” -
“W’nd now - do for husbands to stoop in the city & spend the money.”
-Saw the men lingering on the pier - not unique like the women
----------------
Saw Pt. Giles where John Knox preached -
Thursday, January 8, 1880
Drove in Pm - called at Mollys - Berties -
Lizzy called - Lizzy Baury - Mr. Leeds.
[added material]
Edinburgh weather:
“Sidney Smith said “the summer had set in with its usual severity”-
Friday, January 9, 1880
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Last year there were 300 Americans came at one time at 8 o’clk in the morning - & chg’d a conductor with - & they went to the -----les - the same day - there was a awful lot of them - they had a - - - - - - - - - - - - -
but there was 300 of them altogether - a conductor from London with him - “Did they seem to enjoy it?
“Well I hope so - they had that - They were gay-wise.”
Took train at 5 for Callendu - one hour - bushes & braes o’ Bonny Down - green fields - slowly swelling hills - bits of fine woodland - spruce hedges - & ----- crops - here & there a thatched cottage - field of yellow asters - bright- blue carriage in waiting for us - splendid grey horses - nine miles enchanting drive - ferns - rocky dells - bare hills nestled into the great spans of dark heather - desolate country -
Saturday, January 10, 1880
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now & then - a hunting lodge of sons of the nobility - woods - vales - ----- & firs in superb larches - Heather - purple & pink - white ---- ----- clover - butter cups - sparse & struggling - squarely cut piles & spears - beautiful stairs - stone bridges - little girl threw bouquet of heather & firs to the carriage - 3 times tried - 3 times failed - horses could not stop.
Changes of color in the hills - faint gleams of sunlight, swift & fleeting - Into Trosachs Hotel at 6.45 - picturesque stone building with turrets & narrow slit windows quite in the style of a castle - on the shore of the lake - only a few rods from the water
Had letters from America -
Sunday, January 11, 1880
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July 10 - Sulky - seat slipped forward on shafts - pushing horse along - Norwegian ponies - red balls - with legs before & behind - & a bristling shoe brush for mane - dogged little heads - slow gait-
Norwegian family in square wagon - mother & 4 children & two milk cans & a bunch of cabbages - man walking by side - kindly faces - serious - but not joyless. - Shop of old silver - baubles - clasps - spoons - rings - belts - brooches - left Stavanger at 12. N. - reached Bergen at 10 P.M. - Wondrous sail - in & out among islands - now so near could almost reach them - now wide sea on one hand - islands solid rock - sprinkled with green = here & there green oases - hods---- patches of grain - two or three red roofs - & a tinkle of green around them - in hollows of rocks - on ledges - glimpses up bays with steep rock walls - islands slipping past - shifting in & across each other - almost seemed to be changing places in a stately minuet as we glided so fast - water blue as blue can be - or green in spaces - rocks thrown up - ledges - violet- covered - foliated granite - distant mts --
Monday, January 12, 1880
- cloudy - heavy - rain in Pm -
Lunched at Brevoort with Risleys -
Dr. L in eve.
[added material]
all the time coming into view - snow fields in the horizon high up - glaciers - snow on mts - fosses - through the mist - wound & wound through the islands - pathetic little hamlets in hollows - two or three houses - & patches of green - solitary boat by the shore -
at last headed into a bay - high hills around it - No walk down to water’s edge - Bergen: - odd sort of twilight daylight - steady illuminated twilight - town flung on the hill sides - gables projected from the hill side - calm scene on wharf - silence - few men & boys - boats put off to move passengers up - scene with custom house offices - watched guard over luggage - Kate went off alone in bus to hotel - only one room reserved: Scrimmage in Hotel hall - Englishman in despair - Prof. H. in rage - I stood by silent watching it all - at end three
*Tuesday, January 13, 1880
Snow on ground - storm in Am - cleared at noon - Letters from Gen. Crook & Mrs. Bass
In house all day
[added material]
bros in one room from us - Prof H in another house - & can go to bed in a beautiful twilight at 11.30! -
Friday ni
Wednesday, January 14, 1880
in house all day
Thursday, January 15, 1880
cloudy raw - Drove in P.m. -
Leeds - Brooks - Tibble - Fiske
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July 11 continued milk & tarts - landlady in stiff white linen cap - with sky blue - her sister still older - with more light blue ribbons & pale blue ostrich feather - small shawls wound like Quaker women - indescribably clean & fresh. -
Supper at 8 - lobster in little shells - veal with pies - radishes - cheese.
July 12 - bring evergreen boughs & straw before the house. Every friend brings them - Flowers - wonderful skirting - high post bedstand on wheels - hung with blk materials-silver pillars - silver cross on top - cherubs head in silver behind -
Others crown, still draped with cloth & the horses covered with cloth.
I had letter for P.O. - held it up & asked way - 3 men & a boy all told me at last found the place - horrified to learn that it must go to Hamburg - 4 days - 12 to America! - At six o clock carriage to take us to Mrs. Steens - the carriage
Friday, January 16, 1880
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that shall take you.” Host & hostess met us at the threshold - both saying “Welcome” - as soon as we sat down. drank the toast “Welcome to the table” - soup with balls of chicken meat - scraped raw from the bone - pounded & mashed - fine white, mountains of bread! - delicious - Salmon with clear melted butter - cucumbers - chicken stuffed with parsley & boiled, cauliflower - raspberry jam & poached plums -- omelette - baked in oval pan - set in a plate in a frame of white dimity embroidered in red - with a cambric edging on top & a frill covering the plates! - with this. Cherries preserved with the stones cracked & the meats cooked with them - then coffee & curacoa: After dinner the host & hostess stood one on each side of the door & as the guests go through, each shakes hands and says “God be with you - ? After dinner hostess played Norwegian airs - tender & wild - Nils came with the carriage & carried us home. -
Saturday, January 17, 1880
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like squirrel cage - painted in gayest colors with mottos; “Not in every mans garden can such flowers grow - - “A basket filled by love is light to carry” - peasant women with heavy sacks on their backs - with baskets - one with a firkin - & a firkin under each arm! Milk to sell - “she will bring it miles & miles like that.” fast clattering little ponies coming behind me - on the street - so used to this clatter you forget to look - & hearing a yell you jump from under the ponies now at your shoulder - streets so steep the roadway zigzags up it - Going four times a - - with a little walled sod copse of green left at each turn - so steep if a child fell he would roll to the bottom - “Oh yes I think. & there are places so steep on the Ford that when a mother shall let her child go out to play, she shall fasten him round the body. So - “(making the sign of a girdle & fasten him to the house, or else he shall fall in the water.” -
Sunday, January 18, 1880
July 14 took up a handful of the squirming things then let them fall - spattering us all - huge fish being cut up in slices - head at least 3/4 yard long. - “A whale” said I “not quite” said S.
Peasants in roughest dress, almost like Lapps - white skins under the mans arm - the woman eating bread & sausage - old woman in hole under stone steps a door rigged up - to make it a shop - bread & blueberries - for sale - man with flowers in a basket - Larkspur - & --------- & Hard bark - all the women carrying coal scuttles for fish.
- all the peasants with wooden basket boxes gay painted on their arms - man selling gay-painted wooden plates & bowls. -
When we returned home - saw old bureau her father had given her - “he will take it back because I do not look glad enough” - heard them both - old lady with lavender ribbons flowing - calico gown - 70 yrs old - did not
Monday, January 19, 1880
Reception in Eve. About 80 people - Standing Bear & Bright Eyes & their party.
[added material]
look a day over 60. - proud of her evidently - while we were out - a gentleman seeming as looking at a peasant womans dress spoke to Mrs. S. - & said he would show us his wifes Harlequin dress - took us up stairs - 2. flights - pretty room with palms & ferns growing - brought box of ornaments & the whole dress - his wife wore it to a fancy dress ball- had been dead two years; - little hallway door open as we passed - his mother & sisters cried on the floor below - Curious way of living in Bergen.
In PM Drive with Mr. & Mrs. Steen - up hill to North of Bergen - road in loops up the hill - 5 times its length in a few feet - superb views out towards sea - promontories & headlands - foreground of drab green - hills solid rock - at top suddenly came on cape - surrounded by rocky summits - down to a hamlet of half
Tuesday, January 20, 1880.
Rainy day. Moved to the Brevoort House in P.m.
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a dozen houses - nestled round a little bay - walled in by green hills one side & bare rock the other - bluebells - daisies - clover - ragged robin (Silken flower in Norwegian) - fine white starry blossoms - buttercups - potentilla - N. England growths - granite - moss covered - lichen covered - mountain ash - larch - ash - maple - went to peasants house for milk - “no milk - but a cow - she shall bring some - little white house with enclosed garden in front, lifted above the water - roses - primroses - southern wood - patch of potatoes - currants - cherry trees - lilacs - old woman with knitting came out - talked - asked us in to get flowers - 2d old woman came out to cut them - 3rd to see what the first two were doing - beautiful basket full
Wednesday, January 21, 1880.
Clear bright day - put rooms to rights - walked in Pm & did errands - Dressmakers - dentists &c. -
Gen. & Mrs. Hawkins called
Will out.
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of roses - generosity - then asked us in - old blind brother - & brother who had been clergyman. “I can English read in my New Testament but cannot understand it” - Blind Brother - “Tis to be sure.” - All sat round table - anxious look in sister’s face at window - I said “Yak” -
Oh so clever - only their days in Nursery & learned to say “Yak.” -
They took my hand in both of theirs - pressed it - farewells of friendliness -
Room quaint homely air - old glaced - rock carved over fire place with a bit of gay color. painted in - carved chairs - “They are a little crazy” said S. - I did not like a have them touch me - Family have all been crazy! -
Peasant brought milk - Bob drank it -
Thursday, January 22, 1880.
Rainy day - had cab 2 ½ hours - Wrote to Sec. Schurz in eve -
Will out - Mr. Fiske called
Wrote to Mrs. Hunt - Senator Teller - Mrs. Bass. -
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Piknik on mossy rocks - wine & cake - sunlight on sea - velvet green view at hand - walls of gray rock opposite - bay at our feet - peasant girl resting by wood - basket to be lifted on her back - firkin - bread - &c - brim full - box in one hand & tin trunk in other - . she sat down on bank to get her load on - Prof. H. helped her - it was all he could lift - walked 3 ½ miles into Bergen with it - heavier for firkin was full - as we came home sun was sinking - purple haze - getting ready for that day twilight - or twi daylight which lasts till eleven oclk in the Norway July
Friday, January 23, 1880.
Clear & bright - Mrs & Miss Clark - Mr & Mrs Hayes - Mr Alden. - walked - Pm - to Mad. Rouman & Crook. - Backgammon in Eve! - Mrs. Mercur in eve - Extraordinary woman - had gone with five children abroad - returned as companion to Miss - told all details of everybody & thing - Young daughter with her - under care of Dr. Ardmon - “necrosis” -
Sonnet written for class in Eng. Lit in Towanda - Pa. -
Sonnet on the Sonnet! -
black velvet hat trimmed with light blue - scarf of white Spanish lace around throat - Astrailian muff - gown of blk velvet silk & lace - 9 button white gloves! - Staid in house -
Saturday, January 24, 1880.
Clear & bright - wrote in Am. walked in Pm. Scribners - Mad Roumans - Dr. Hawes - Molly - Prof Gardner at dinner. - Will went to Club in Eve. -
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July 15 - Mr. Alexander Bull waiting for us - green boat shining new - down a ticklish staircase in boats side - short row to the landing at Valestrand - woman whose face we had been studying, & admiring, came into boat - proved to be Martha, an old servant of the family who had gone out to the place to help him entertain us for the day - Landed at a little pathway of mossy stones - an old boat hauled up - two cows lying under its shelter - another cow bawling at us from the top of the hill - old fashioned Lady’s delights blooming wild - blue moss with yellow star moss & white - big white clover , dandelions - ferns & moss - tickling water among the rocks - flashing waterfall - wooded hills - birch & firs - birch all plumey like feathers - peasants making hay - women in red jackets - white blouses - dark blue skirts - barefoot - houses with grass on
Sunday, January 25, 1880.
Countess & Molly to dinner - wrote all day - Mr. Ruggles in P.m.
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top of roof - dark red one against hill side - hay drying in the temporary fences - roses - Eshscholtzia in circles - huge blooms - house of pale flesh color - airy sort of architecture - flowers in it - breakfast table - Norwegian repast - sausage - goat milk cheese - coffee - milk eggs - brown racks - only one baker can bake them & he sells them only to his customers who buy break & if you want them you must go hat in hand & beg for them” -
Music room & old Bull’s chamber all pine - carvings done by peasants - cornice & beard of ceilings - twisted posts in Old Bull’s bedroom. - peasant woman in the house - white headdress & scarlet jacket with gay breastplate - dinner of trout with cream - croquettes with salad - strawberries & cream - gooseberry wine - after dinner - “well bekommen” may it suit you well” - place belonged to Ole Bull’s grandfather - floating about in the lake - stream full of
Monday, January 26, 1880.
Miss Roach & lad called in - in P.m. - Called at Dr. Hollends & Mrs Bates - Had coupe 1 ½ hours
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. - trout! - as we walk to boat. - saw man catching them - at a little bridge - under which the water dashed down foaming - marshy above - purple grass & dark reeds above - small box - with locked cover - full of spikes of wood - they lifted it up - two men to lift it - then they were splashing leaping wildly - a dozen superb trout - shining - spots - took them out one by one & killed them by knocking their heads against a stone -
little boat houses with grass sods on roofs - young birch trees growing out of roof! -
Tuesday, January 27, 1880.
Rain - at Astor Library all day - Coupe 3 P.m.
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July 27 - wooden utensils - mats - shoes - brooms of twigs - pond lilies in one basket - egg shells strung as sign - wooden white sails - gay colors - blueberries - handful of strawberries in saucer - bought one flower from old woman - saw blue & white plate - Norway? Ya. Ya! Man who could speak English came - said no - English. -
Boats coming in with peasant woman starting up them - 3 & 4 - gay dresses - white capes - or dark blue - bringing wood - vegetables - greens - hurrying in - as I walked home, met scores more coming in - weighed down under their heavy baskets or sacks - one man & woman side by side, he was lame - walked with a cane - had a firkin strapped to board on his back. & a big sack on top of that! - little girl nine with basket big as herself - on her back piled with moss - better class of paints driving little two wheeled carts - with horses walking by side -
Wednesday, January 28, 1880.
At Astor Library all forenoon - called on Lizzy Barray in Pm. - no wind - Lovely day -
[added material]
green strewed in streets before the house when any one in it has lost a friend - more go out without seeing it in many streets -
Set off at 12 - for trip with Mrs. Steen - Nils & the shaggy horses. Drove for Mrs. S. on way to boat bought cherries in the street - boat crowded with people - wharf crowded - goodbyes - babies held up -. Saturday boat filled with russian men going up to their families in the country - sailed to the east - then South. - then went zigzaging among islands - but making all the while towards the South & west - always have the feeling that I am going north in a fjord - Bob appeared as soon as the steamer started - Orsnay in S.S. face - “Oh. how is Bob” - he looked them straight in the eye. Mixture of deference & contrition irresistible - no explanation is usual - no mirth - crept away - & did not come back on
Thursday, January 29, 1880.
Dr. A’s in Morning - out all day - forbid to write - Mollys in P.m.
No carriage - Lovely day
[added material]
some time. - endless islands - wooded - rocky - water malachite green in narrow passages - they widened out to blue & sparkle! - changes from narrow threading passages between islands to wide open water - high hills in distance - & back again so fast it was bewildering - little boats pushing off from landings - sometimes five at a time - wives coming to meet their husbands on Sunday - promontories of low green - bold headlands - shadows on hills - dappling - opaline - purple - soft. - marvel how rocky islands without wooding could be so soft. -
July 18 - and flowering grasses. Walk up a rocky stream - Brattleboro over again - out . meadows and rest so full of flowers - blue bells - pink heath - added to oxeye daisies - clover - butter cups wild parsley - Yarrow - Stream brawling along over stones - parting & blowing around islands with snow flake & purple thistle & bushes of birch & ash -
Friday, January 30, 1880
[added material]
Bob rollicking - then setting down in the grass & cooling at the stream - turning an onanimal[?] eye on us - S. would show him the rope - on which he would instantly make off -
Looked into the windows of cottages - poverty stricken - tiny beds - clothes hung on strings above them - blankets & cover rugs - a gay trunk - a chair & a looking glass all the furniture. -
Magpies - a reward for every one shot! - Proverb - 1 - sorrow - 2 joy - 3. marriage - 4 Good fortune. - I saw five before breakfast -
Told S. of the proverb about fruit - As we say it of cheese - gold in the morning - silver at noon & lead at night -
Norwegian men - walk with their hand in their wife’s - such gracious bows. -
Wooded hills all around Eide - Steep - houses gleaming out mar the tops of them. - Snow on some of them. -
Saturday, January 31, 1880.
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Wild pansies growing every where.
July 19. - Women all away up at the Soeters - only the men & the maid servants at home - haying. - first room - Kitchen - maids at dinner - wooden cabinets - jet black from smoke & no window - huge stove trough in center - square - fire on it - cauldron over it on crane - brewing beer - queer utensils on shelves - drinking vessel - wind ran down into cellar through trap door. brought up beer in it - room with clothes hung on pegs - blankets on lines - trunks ranged round - beds in the side 3 filling side of room - straw - & blankets! = fantastic old red & green bureau & secretary - store room - chests of grain - hog & beef hung - starts of bladbrod - baked in a pan in spring -
Man showed his mothers trunk - his wifes - some confusion in boxes - showed old silver
Sunday, February 1, 1880.
Dined at Bottas - Hans Brertiman - Prof. Fiske - Sally - Miss Chartier - Coupe’ in eve -
[added material]
cup - showed us the apple orchard in hollow ravine - the barn - old father & mother - old woman showed her under blouse - her trinkets - 50 years old - coverlids in gay colors her mother had spun - bargained for old drinking bowl - discussion between couple as to parting with it - held dried peas - 100 yrs old - asked 4 crowns for it - would take $5. for rug - took out brandy bottle from trunk of rolls of flannel & basket - old silver cup to drink out of - passed it on us. -
Climbed still higher - up-up - flowers in profusion - blue & green - yellow mutton spike - “sheeps bells”
Monday, February 2, 1880.
Cold - At Astor in Am - had coupe in Pm for 3 hours - Broadows - Barnards & daughter - Lazarus. - Coupe’ to Lib & back
[added material]
cluster of horns round a slanted enclosure - ------- proper in Von - old house over 100 years old - used for stone house now on first floor - old sword on the beams overhead - been in the family hundreds of years - it is in the brain of every man that it is never to be taken away - like the crest of Edenhall - took us upstairs - stacks of clothes - walls hung thick on two sides - blankets & gorgeous coverlids - As soon as a girl begins to be grown up, one of their trunks is given to her - & her accumulations begin - some trunks gay - some unpainted wound with brass mountings - very fine. -
In this old house, three beds in a row on each side - in the room where the clothes were - could take them out to be aired - the roof vents on them.
Younger son showed around this house
Tuesday, February 3, 1880.
Snow storm, in house all day.
[added material]
his elder brother had the farm - old father & brother lived here - in loft over the room where dresses &c. were - rows & rows of his ---- &c. - old loom with cloth in it put away - splendid old cupboard behind it - living room - had two bunk beds in it - table & chairs - fine prints on walls. - pond lilies in two blk bottles - offered me one at once - beer in big wooden drinking vessel - brandy bottle hid among rolls of woolens - opened his mothers chest - splendid old silver drinking cup with a curled handle - her pins & buttons in it - filled it with brandy - we sipped - he gulped it down - fiery brandy - Store room full of stores - quaint basket on wall full of horn & wooden spoons - for festivals -
Wednesday, February 4, 1880.
[added material]
took us down into a little cellar - one slab of slate its roof - beer bowl - another beaker of beer! - this family owns slate quarry - very rich. - one room in house used as shop for the time being. - loft over half the room - railing in front of it - ladder up to it - children slept here! - farmer in bed in lower half of the room - beds only loose straw - with blankets! - when they have weddings they hang their gay blankets round the wall - borrow if they have not enough. - old woman asked my age - murmur of regret in the crowd! - “She will go to Americas!” - knitting knitting - has a daughter in America - fingered the velvet of my dress curiously. - “It has wondered me that I find here abroad so many standing near the house!” - When the railway come - it shall be that the life is different - it is not good in many ways. -
Thursday, February 5, 1880.
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The Horse yellow - dark mane tail - a---- & a dark brown line down his back - fine Norwegian - strong - expected to nibble occasionally - frequently met a man letting his horse nibble - go like the wind in a howl - steep hills coming back - stony road - no road at all - walked most of the way - women haying - Driver said “Happiness go with you, in your work” - “always some friendly word when they pass” - how much better than the grim silence of well bred people - how a human being as he turned a stone or a tree! - went into neat white house on way down - not a human being in it - went all over it! every door unfastened - nearly new carpet in this home - bureau - sofa - chairs of wood with a little carving - stoves - but no sheets on bed - road through pine woods along river - passed another foss - stopped to see about photo - one woman gone away - the other ill - went to house of Drivers sister - a widow -
Friday, February 6, 1880.
Clear - cold - Coupe for 1 ½ hours in P.m. - Mrs. Wiles - Boyd - Mr Leds - Newbold -
[added material]
house of five rooms - stair case like the rest. ---- ladder - bureaus full of clothes - showed us her head dresses - square linen hdfs with one corner embroidered - pinned it up & put it on her head for a moment - for two years they wear it closer pinned after two years - & a white shawl - no ornaments - but red ribbon. - Weddings - bride on white horse - bridegroom riding one also - leading his brides horse - gay cloth on the horses - always on Tuesday or Thursday - because on these days they eat meat & it must not be that they are married on a fish day!
Saturday, February 7, 1880.
Clear - cold - Dinner at Mrs. Bottas - Mrs. Peabody - coupe
[added material]
climbed up - desolate moors - firs - swampy - here & there a house - mts all around - gates down the road - children flying to open them - 6 round in a row - piteously chafed faces. - run on ahead to open the next - came to cluster of houses high up on bleak face of hill - men looked like savages - but good - huts - mts forbidding - road steep up this hill - driver stopped - got ----- ------- terrible pull for the horses up this hill - at top - a revelation - looked down over a colossal chasm - marked by line of dark - down into that! - 3000 feet. - began to wind - 16 loops to road - nowhere very steep - stories & iron railing - gleaming foss on right - the Stalheimsfos. on the other side in ---- ------ the Sivlefos - roar - spray - a high fountain in middle of it! - mossy slopes & shrubs & birch trees & blue bells & grassy hollows
Sunday, February 8, 1880.
Clear - cold - Evening at Bottas - no coupe’
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between the looks - & a hay fence wherever there was room to swing a reapers hook! - chasm widened - the foaming stream in center - & a road - mts precipitous on each side - bare rock - fosss ----ing down - walked all way down - at each turn new view of the fosses! - spray in face - carriage below like a baby waggon on sled bridge waiting - houses above the foss = unspeakable grandeur of this chasm - valley only a cleft - clouds lifting rolling changing to sides of mts - setting far below on hut - darkness at bottom of the valley - stairs from the two fosses - wet - still foaming with white caps - five miles of this - firs & bits of meadows - fosses innumerable - masses of rock - white pebble track of fosses - forded this - the driver calmly wading through - huge boulders lying everywhere - dangerous valley to live in - masses fall every spring. - letter carrier nearly pelted there last spring - heard it coming & sprang from his horse & ran -
Monday, February 9, 1880
Gen. F-----ffin in Am - Clear - cold - Coupe
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gudvagen - on a strip at base of the mts - where the road meets the fjord - desolate huddle of half a dozen houses - two little Hotels - crowded - except for one grand letter had had no rooms - a great room - with beds in cupboard under the eaves - Guidos party arrived - 6 - landlord gave his own rooms - vile smells - unbearable - afterwards the girls - decided to sleep on floor & chairs in parlor! - good supper - prowled in steet at night - 3 widows of Macbeth in a hut - no widow - cave - old women - one had five children in America - ran down the street to borrow a candle to show us the window of their hut! - cheery - terrible odors - outhouse - above the street - down between houses - full sight of the town! - behind the Hotel - enormous rock fallen on to others - wade to cellar for milk - like a huge cave - woman washing dishes on two boards outside the door - tiny kitchen - stove
Tuesday, February, 10, 1880.
Clear & cold.
dinner at Mollys - Prof Pr----- Lecture in eve. Idolity in Science -
Idolity - the consolation of the Slave & the conscience of the King. --
[added material]
in chimney place - dark. -
Thursday, February 12, 1880.
Rainy - coupe’ from Lib. - Dinner at Voorhees
Friday, February 13, 1880.
Raw - Coupe’ to Lib & back - in Eve to Mrs. Beggs to dinner -
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snowtopped in distance - great snow field - Justedalsbren in terraces - one of the longest in Norway - finally we came into a bay - & the snowfield ----- off to the right - up another fjord - Valefividen. - we seem to be sailing right into a wall of hills - lovely meadow rim, no river at all - Balholvneu - a church with -----rys & a hamlet - wooded hill behind it - superb gorges - Balestrand a green shore - only a rim & a little promontory & fjord peaking up beyond - despite snow field above - boats coming off -- one with gay flag - light sunshades & ---- driver - Balestrand place of work - coming to the sea shore - with green fruit orchards towards edge & graves at back of yon Hotel - & ----- of mts broad - broader - & wide - then narrower - then into a narrow fjord - way up to the head of it - two cliffs with a high jagged hill between - at their base bright green slopes of show - built - few houses - two jagts being built - storm raging in
Saturday, February 14, 1880.
Clear & cold - called at Mrs. Bromans in Pm - Mr. Boules & Stoddards in eve -
[added material]
the cleft - here one party of English chouclus for Nolde - & another came on board. - out of the dark fjord into the sunlight - up the fjord - terraces of blue mts dark in the nearest ones. grading away to pale blue with tops in the skies & snow patches on them - down the fjord - darker purple in the ------ ---- - grading down to pale gray - spaces of illuminated green here & there - a top in sunlight - bars of sunlight - shining through - black clefts!
Stories by Nuch. -
Storm swept away the upper end - blotted out the mts - world turned to dark blue - white sail against it - space of full sunlight - sailed into Ladvik - between the sun & the storm - one broad slant of sunlight among the little slope in which Ladvik stands. - white church with odd stone spire -
Sunday, February 15, 1880.
Snow storm - Rain - Warm & clear for eve - Dined at Bottas - Coupe’ in P.m.
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hills opposite all velvety purple in shadow & green in light - a world of bluffs with round & moulded tops -
shadows of hills for which the sun had set thrown in dark relief on hills still in sun. - fantastic shapes - couchant animals -
hills ahead - silver shimmering gray & palest purple - cut for the worker. She in a blaze of yellow light under a pale blue sky with floating clouds - behind us - a low sky full of clouds - ineffable play of light & shade in the farthest tops of hills - colors about pristine - in the pale purple slope against the yellow sky - one silver foss! shining now & then & disappearing - magic. - purple changed to silver gray - noisy brutes on deck - one played Pinafore - coupled & rude jokes -
woke then the knitting lady -
“I think she must be in want of stockings”
“ And not of mountains”
Monday, February 16, 1880.
Lib all day - cold - called at Lizzys - & on L. Field & Hayes in eve - wound up at Bottas. -
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“Then she need not to come to Norway.
Brute talking -
“Dresden - 2 days - Gallery - Nuts all-“
“Raphaels - lot of Raphaels -
I don’t care for Raphaels madam - Ill
tell you whom I like - Veronese -
“Im very fond of Tintoretto -“ -
I like Titans - they are so delicate, you know -
- Well who s that man that has such
dreadful things - all mixed up you know -
In some places you see quite a good many. -
“There are a lot of Rembrandts at Munich!! -
There was one I liked - I think it’s a Christ - four children on the ground -
Tuesday, February 17, 1880.
Clear bright & warm at Lib. till 1. - Brooks breakfasted with me - Mendelsohn Glee Club in Eve. with Mrs. Eaton & Botta
[added material]
at sunset in among the rocky islands - stopped at - Sksverjehavn -
Shearragerhaven - Rocky Haven - nothing to be seen but rocks - myriads - threaded our way among them - sun showed through in a way to turn them to smokey crystal with a fire showing through - 8.30 - writing by good daylight - sun still up. - hills turn to purple - sky clear & yellow - bright purple clouds against the yellow sky - above the near islands of gray & green -
sun lingering behind the dark rocks - whole sky brushed with pink purple - clouds in belts & waves
Wednesday, February 18, 1880.
Clear warm Lib. all day - Eve. at Mollys
Thursday, February 19, 1880.
Warm in Am. - Bitter cold in Pm - Lib. all day -
[added material]
Theres a Guido I like - Eve Homa - twas coming down the face you know -
“ - one or two good Titans I forget the --------- at the Louvre” -
I don’t care about Velasquez do you? -
I like Vadyhis picture of the Crucifix in -
Friday, February 20, 1880.
Dinner at Mrs. Bromans - Coupe’ both ways - clear & bright
[added material]
all the sick peoples in Norway do come when the doctors canot do nothings more for them - den they comes here.
Here camed our lait King - King Oscar - and then he did die on the dock when he was coming away.
“The doctor did not save him then. “No - when it is the time, one has to go, no matter how much money they will pay.
There is one what + + she stopped I said what do you go to say K.” -
“You know all what I mean. - This is one what has it in his own way devoutly. -
Met man carrying a basket - unfastened in stopping to show us - frightful things made of black & white velvet cut out & laid on velvet - ------ ---- his wife sick -- or he could not be around. -
Saturday, February 21, 1880.
Snow squall - Will Sturgis to dinner - Gov. & Mrs. Chamberlain in eve.
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ugly dusty suburbs - works of our first & another & poor houses. - with intervals of green fresher places. - St. Johns Hill -
“Ah that do be a great day - St Johns Day - fires burning all round from Hill to Hill to Hill that is from the old time - I think it is from Catholics - you see. they did do a great deal for dem old Saints you see -: I think that is it - but I think they do not just surely know in Norway today. What for they do it - it has been old custom from parents to parents -“
- I do not see that the peoples that is all for saving what they got, gets any richer -
I think if you give all the time, to dem that is poorer, that is the way -
Sunday, February 22, 1880.
Dinner at Mollys
[added material]
After we got home, I sent her out to buy fruit - returned with small cantalope - 1.30! Sent it back - too dear - “I thought so - it was well I did not buy it.” -
finally returned triumphant with a sort of black currant - horrid! - “Well it is the first time - maybe afterwards - Ugh! -
Tuesday, February 24, 1880.
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When had been that bad, he could have killed King Ring- but he threw his hound away - King Ring dying - then two boys belongs to King Ring but Mr. Firthof gets her -
- medallions in white on oak ground -
ceiling in squares - with gold stars - the shields & lion & boar every where - must get sick of the sight of his boar -
off look from windows lovely -
whole city - green hills - & bay - sea over the foreground of trees -
frightful pictures - hard & cold - afterwards drove to Consul Gaida’s house - old Norwegian Fen house - entered large court yard with low buildings on each side - cupola in center of
Wednesday, February 25, 1880.
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main building - low studded noons opening in all directions - winding stairs - piazza with view out to sea - everywhere the sea - no wonder the old Norse language had 120 words for the sea in its different appearances -
avenue of lime trees - clumps of them - bits of color here & there in the grass - great vegetable & fruit garden - currants bowed down under their fruit - splendid trees -
Thursday, February 26, 1880.
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stories high - 4 rooms on floor - projecting roof - ornamental work at eaves - “daily room” - spotless clean - rounding corner cupboard 2 stories high of maple - superb old high clock - gilt & dark wood - flowers in windows - bureaus under glass - pot with vine in it. & the vine lying all over the bureau top! - same on stand in corner - another big room opening out of this - not yet fitted fully - great pride. - brought out beer - & milk. -old Norwegian style - wife. pitiful face - goitre - half a dozen buildings - 3 - barns - “& Yet not room - another old farm house - laborers living in it - all sitting in a row on the big hearth. - one suckling a child - poverty - cheer - milking in shed - 16 cows in rows - emaciated - roadway up to center of the barn - to second story - four chambers for hay - positions of logs as fine & solid as outer walls -
Friday, February 27, 1880.
Cloudy - Coupe 3 hours in eve - Called at Shonens Boyds - Chamberlain - Broumans. -
[added material]
women working in rye fields - raking sheaves - piled & tied on 2 sticks - transversely - full ends all one way - makes the round out like bent figures “Dem. Lager bier women” - farmer standing. high on hill overseeing - this farm belonged to officer - $50.000! - women get 50 cts a day - mostly married women - or young women who have houses - men get same - women who serve by the day get from $2. to $4 a month. - men higher. - farm chiefly hay - but grain wheat - rye - potatoes -
- Gladveds Hotel - balcony with 3 stories - roof stretching out & covering upper one - pretty carving - morning
Saturday, February 28, 1880.
Coupe’ to Lib. & Bottas - Shonens
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hedges of box & pink spirae - ferneries - duckelies - barns - ! - garden on side running down to river - apple trees - lilacs - little spaces. of gillies sweet williams &c. - green house - round tables - seats - curve of the river - fir woods on low hill beyond - rush of the water - logs eddying down - little girl came out of the cottage with two pails - sprang out on a log - felted back pails - from west window of any room - see the houses on opposite bank - just like Maine! - and a great space of the white foaming water - above - looks somehow, rounded as if it foamed over a slope!
dining room with table from corner to corner - myrtles in pots in windows - other front room glass with great white lilies & white & pink like tiger lilies - round stand in corner with several pots full - white paper round pots - stove white also.
Sunday, February 29, 1880.
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geraniums & fuchsias & heliotrope on windows - bureau between windows - with lookingglass that seemed as if it might have come out of an old Viking ship - white lilies in front of that also. - every window full - on brackets on walls also -
Monday, March 1, 1880.
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in front of altar - -------- in black gown & white ruff, like pictures of old Reformers - endless service - then ---- down to each with his hand on top of their heads - responded by bowing - choir sang -----ing song - minister intoned a lot of stuff - endless! - bride cried - church hot. - at end minister came down & shook hands with bride & brides groom - (then the men sat one side & the women another -) the men around over one by one. & all shook hands - then fell back & followed the bride & bride groom out! in couples - splendid old peasant woman - gorgeous head - green - jacket . dark blue with ruffling gilt edge. up between her shoulderblades - skirt hanging in full plaits from that - purple & gilt cap - tied up with scarlet strings & red & gold streamers hanging down behind - what looked like a flower of gay colors in front - & a knot of gay flowers in her right shoulder blade but proved to be only very gay silk hdfs - knotted one end she shamed all the rest -
altar draped with white, the bouquets pinned on & pots of flowers - each side - 2 soft cushions
Tuesday, March 2, 1880.
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of green worked in white beads for them to kneel on - steps strewn with flowers & green - steps of church also. - very hot there - bride looked it - went back to Hotel - drove into the fence in the lawn! - composure of driver - face more like a white sheeps than any human creature I ever saw - steps of hotel - hall - & stairs all strewn with flowers - wedding train with lady - quits sliding about - Landlord brought old peasant - for me - she had been in the brides family & the same as her mother, came since she was 3 yrs old - lost her mother then & this woman took care of her - “A very happy day to you then? “Yes Yes - but she put her hdfs to her eyes as she said it - tears in the hollows still - pulled up her sleeves to show me the embroidery of her shirt sleeve - long apron of gay chintz to her arches - whole front open of her jacket - filled with gathered dirndls - & silver ornaments - gr hdf twisted round her hand outside the purple & gold cap - knotted on right side - same hdf round her neck - knot on right
Wednesday, March 3, 1880.
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shoulder behind -
Took train at 4. for Chritiania - met boy on bridge with Mrs. Nevils hdfs! - in newspaper! took it - hot jolting ride of 5 hours - along fjords - & in valley after valley - pine forests on sides - villages farms - snowwalls in the bottom!
At “Gold Forest” - - - - is old lady in silvery gray - ----- lace - white flowers - an old lady. the world evidently - “Fawel nievlai” - pots & baskets put under seats - people knew her at stations respect & deference - no carriage at station - would guard over family while Katrina did for me - man carried us out twice the distance. --
Thursday, March 4, 1880.
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old lady with high cap & flowers - came & looked at us - & grandly gave us leave to stay on the porch - felt like tramps! - ruins like all - now much alike they crumble - part of the ------ loft - beautiful off look over great stretch of farming country - climbs of lilacs - house stood at head of the Gri Fjord. -
Friday, March 5, 1880.
Coupe in eve. to Mrs. Bottas
Ole Bull - Vedder - Miss Nills - Mrs. Sanford - Judge Peabody - Dr. Chandler
[added material]
Sorts of relics - silver bars & wires such as they used for currency before coin - old embroideries - weapons - coins - ornaments - chains - strings of Venetian beads found in tombs 1000 years old - bracelets - rings - brooches - all tagged & labelled & set in a catalogue - seemed new in comparison with the old ship! - with its rusty nails - & broken timbers -
Saturday, March 6, 1880.
Coupe to Lib - in A.m. - 2 ½ hours in P.m.
[added material]
sausages raw ham - salmon shrimp - sardines - cheese & cold bread & butter - - - - beefsteak - potatoes gravy - & the fruit we had bought of the woman -- clean up at sea - to find ourselves in a great open sea - shores pink & gray in the east - dim & distant - wooded on the west & the sun going down painting every tree top in fine etching in the yellow sky - sail gleaming in the sun - faint white against the horizon - pair of Lapps snow shoes on deck. - Suddenly into islands - wooded - rocky with houses - pink halo spied around the horizon - came to stop between two stretches of lovely shore - big green fields on one side - & low green bare promontory on the other - small town. “Shoddy factory” We call it shoddy after the English” - “Kradsuld” - wing with four dormer windows where roofs ---- from the edge hole- - roof in box plaits! - Norwegian talking English “I have read it twenty five ones.” which is island & which is shore - always I mistake is you guess
Sunday, March 7, 1880.
Bottas & Mrs Rishte to dinner - Dr. Rise in P.m. Rain. - in house all day
[added material]
I tried ringing bell for supper - out flew the tongue! - Some islands with crumbled low bluffs shines thru - not at the waters edge but a little way back. -----between islands - sloop at anchor in Arm - some islands bleak & bare rock - lovely low crouching - tiny boat with one square sail - size of a peapod & not unlike in shape - rose halo - left. his cart & gathered in fleeces in the west - pale green sky like dawn - narrow belts of orange - islands gray - & dark - myriads. -
Monday, March 8, 1880.
Clear
[added material]
Aug. 21 - 2 story dormer windows in a terraced tiled roof projecting back from the ridge pole of dormer windows - church with round tower that Emperor Cathern - drove up to the top of! - easy winding street - cylinders one inside the other - astonishment of the green on quad that I only walked a few steps up! - no one more astonished at the Emperor going up than he was at my not going up! - Building for poor students opposite - built by the same C.H - still used for some purpose - Statue of Hans Christian in the Garden of Castle - superb shade - dark - hundreds of children - 2 known a year - statue of bronze - still yellow -noble loving face - right hand lifted to bless little children - left holding a book - sitting - good pose - the child & the stork on one side the pedestal - the Ugly Duck
XTuesday, March 9, 1880.
Coupe to Lib - & to N.Y. Hotel - in A.m. - 1 hour in Pm. Dr. Bell & Knightley to dinner - snow storm -
[added material]
on the other - “for the children to see” - wreath & his name - “put up by the Danish people.” -
Flowers round it - at head of a grand vista roofed by the foliage. -
Wednesday, March 10, 1880.
Will Sturgis to dinner - in house all day
[added material]
trimmed with eels minus tails crossed at top! - moss on thatch but houses cream color - red tiled roof - white pattern lined along the edges - vines - & flowers & white curtains - comfort - well to do - blue sea in sight to east - sails - looked higher this end! - church of brick - new - neatly frescoed - carved pulpit & gallery on choir - & pews - all painted a grand yellow brown with beads of olive green & dark claret - candelabra in center - great gilt ball - holders coming out of that - red cord holding it up. with four ornamental gilt balls at intervals - two high ones behind the railing with the holders in shape of birds with tail curled under them but to stand on - candelabra on these birds - minister in ruff - & black gown - fine serious face - oval - suited the ruff - close auburn hair - looked as if he might have belonged to the reformation - choir of little girls - all congregation sang - gilt altar with candles & a crucifix - & a huge head of Christ
Thursday, March 11, 1880.
Snow storm - Mrs. Hunt left - in house all day -
[added material]
with halo of nine spokes like windmill around coming out from it. - (windmills picturesque on the island) - Congregation half on modern dress - all the men! - the older women & a few of the younger ones - wearing the costumes bonnet - black bind with shined lavender ribbon or purple satin - one plain band of trimming ------ ----- or flairing long tight over the top & to ears & points way under chin, inside full strings coming from ears, tied under chin - light blue in purple - gay colors in purple! - hdfs around in neck - gay or light blue - not unbecoming -
Carved font with shining pewter top & ewer - sounding board over pulpit & back to pulpit all carved in simple counter-----zed pattern & painted in the brown green & claret harmoniously - if the walls had not been white wld have been very pretty church --
Friday, March 12, 1880.
Coupe to Lib in A.m.
[added material]
one old woman with black ------ cap like a tunnel set on her head tight to the forehead - point way out behind - tied on by full gray strings of wide ribbon - looked a little tooth achy at sides - but becoming in front - the modern head gear looked hideous - by side these old simpler lines.
at end of sermon singing of hymns - pastor disappeared - came back in velvet over dress - white skirt - cross in gilt on his back - candles lighted on altar - stood with his back to people long time at altar - (we were locked in! su------- unlocked at at end of service) the congregation then went up to the sau----- - knelt around the inner rail at the altar
Sunday, March 14, 1880.
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windmill - 6 sided - sails on red beams - balcony all round it - painted red - red brads sloping down to lowest story - first story open on piles - wood piled in under it - there a cream colored belt - there a black with 2 in - - - in each side - then the red balcony - then drab - of plain woods - then old gray shingled - one window in each side with red rim - . low ware house -- cream colored lines off in panels by dark brown lines -- red tiled roof one going on to the mill by covered way - this one of cream colored stone. with gable of red tiles - millers house - cream colored - red roof -- vines - hedges, orchard -
Monday, March 15, 1880.
Went to see Noras picture of Holy Cross with Dr. Bell.
Tuesday, March 16, 1880.
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1st step of civilization - cornerstone - aplenty - Paradise cant have her if this in period in France - all countries - same type of stone implements - Bablyon - sins - spire - Idol -
chipping stone in rough - wedge shaped - same type of tool stones ---- ---- fur wants - (stone - bronze & iron) - relics of the Cave dwellers - corn - fruits - herbs - apple - nuts - cloth - yarn - cords - armlets - pottery - fish hooks -
Shilling for ------- Peru - knus to chi heads horses head - pottery from S. America - heads from S.A. - fake things from Mexico -
Wednesday, March 17, 1880.
Went to Brooklyn in P.m. - Miss Rands - Dr. Jarvien in evening. -
[added material]
can of things from America - from flints up to beads -
Massachusetts - old van neck = hammered silver in a mound - bronze belts & beads -
ear stoppers of silver - Middleboro. -
Esquiainx - huts - summer & winter - hut -
N. American Indians -
cannibals -
shrink mummy head -
Picture of Brazilian woman with flowers on her head
Houses & arts -
Thursday, March 18, 1880.
Goddards arrived - dined with us in eve - Prof Gardner in Eve. -
[added material]
Northern antiquities -
- necklaces - on all & could been on any neck - s. berry - rings - all found in one place - probably buried at offerings - old copies in logs - tapestries of King Olaf - ----- Brake & watch - Superb tapestries. -
Friday, March 19, 1880.
Snow - sleet - rain - Mr. Goddard went to Lib. with me in Am. -
[added material]
old Arab saddle - exactly like that used by the Black Feet today - stirrup covers also. -
fine full length figures of Is - a B.F. warrior on horseback - feather decoration down the back - breast ornament - Arabian in design - portraits of of Indians - all that we know - & more - every sort of Indian dress - one place in the world where their splendid decorative work is preserved & recognized. -
- recurrence of the idol face - the protruding eyes - open mouth - ----- & lolling tongue - Java - Mexico - New Zealand - in embroidery on the ----- ----- in China -
in the amulet of New Zealand -
Saturday, March 20, 1880.
Went to cathedral with Will
[added material]
August 27 - Vaults under Rathhouse - dungeons - Restaurant then people eating. - custom for brides & bride grooms to go there & take their first wine cup - while we sat waiting there bride & bride groom came down -- only two men with them plain black dress - -------- wreath of myrtle on her head -
market - woman with quaint wooden bonnets looked like straw - vendor of shrimps - all the vegetable women had their food with green with long green sheaves hanging behind - tied on with narrow white cambric strings embroidered at ends - & worn over a white cap with full ruches in the back - fish woman had ----- band with black & with purple strings - lined with purple calico! - bought one off the cleanest woman - 4 marks - crowd gathered round to watch - in five minutes it was ------. -
Milk carts - full of brass bound firkins - ‘long spouts at one side - brass measures hanging- shining - hand carts 4 wheels - blue with pink wheels - old Rathhouse on one side market - with cloisters - fountain in center -
Stadt Hamburg - porch with oleander wall - tables set in it - took my lunch there - alone - to the great
Sunday, March 21, 1880.
Perfectly beautiful day! Clear - sunny - cool - still - rest - Will in bed all day. Dr. May & wife in P.m. -
[added material]
wonder of everybody - huge crowd on doorsteps - fountain in front -
Cathedral - huge clock - halo & face in center representing the eyes of God - the eyes turning with every stroke of the pendulum - figure of death with hour glass - & hammer to strike the hours - ----- of Train strikes the quarters. - hideous huge crucifix - on cross platform - with the kneeling figures of the Bishop - Mary, & St John - & the most immodest Adam & Eve I ever saw.
fantastic high pulpit - twisted iron railing around below it - so knotted, 5 strands - say devil made it -
at 3. - Train struck 4. times - Death turned the hour glass & shook his head & struck their tops with the hammer - -
Monday, March 22, 1880.
Will went to Phila. -
[added material]
Superb carvings from Burgomasters House - Nivord Noir to Frudiets exchange - parcels of alabaster carved - every inch carved - ceiling in squares - allegorical scenes - - figures on window shutters - winding stair case out side, railing all wreathed with vines. -
- Motto on Plate Dutch - an old house -
- North & South the world is wide
East & West home is best. -
- 3 people could not read it - servant busy in house did not know it.
Tuesday, March 23, 1880.
Went to Phila. - Night at Continental Hotel
[added material]
Lunebourg - fine old spire - meadows beyond - storks rising & flying low - black & white with yellow front - “The country people reckon it a great blessing if the stork will build a nest on the roof.” - changed cars at L. - woman on knees in fields working - raking hay - purple heather - oaks - white birches. - oases of vegetable gardens - out into a moor - purple with blue there - “the dreary Lunebourg Heath.” - Ullzen - waited - junction - Golden Rod - from S. to E. - heather - ----- & brick - pine - level flat - desolate, except for color. - acres of solid heather.
“I wish I had taken me Tennyson with me - his focus. I am so fond of - I might at least have stuck something in my pocket.” - Bell ringing at stations & two whistles - buttercups & clouds - on men reaping heather - use it to strew in shop stalls for them to sleep on - also they eat it - pines & birch can grow with it. -
Lille. Castle - where queen was --cjound - “Nasty old queen Dowager did it” - King had opened the Ball with her -- that very nite he
Wednesday, March 24, 1880.
Returned to N. York.
[added material]
signed the warrant for her exile - took her that night as she was if they had waited till morning the Danes would have torn her from the wagon for they worshipped her - she screamed for her baby & they tossed it to her - she was only 20. -
Great tracts of wood - Hanover - valley of Leine - hills - “Oh what wonderful nature - isnt this grand ma’am”? fertile valley - red villages hugged round their churches - houses tiled on whole sides as well as roofs - half way down sides with a second eaves line there - walls white & red brick with latticed wood in them -
Thursday, March 25, 1880.
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Fursuppen wood - windows & shutters - old church with spire at corner. Elm - bundled out again! - Lost pen - telegraphed for it - friendly station master in uniform - were told we should wait till eleven - just got to writing - bundled into cars again!-- picturesque scenery at Elm - road wound round & then through in “hill.” - H. “oh it needs no judge to see that God has been here” - we must think on the Building master when we look at such scenery as this - fine country
- hills wooded - meadows - everybody haying - woman swinging scythe - ------ with basket full of green grass on her back - at second station - heard from pen - “found & will be sent!” H clapped hands” You’ll be more fond of it now ma’am than ever you were, because its been away, from you & you got it back again.” - Splendid old ruin at Gemnadua - doesn’t it be majestic Ma’am on the hill - ½ hour at Gemnadua. - next place - fine old castle - towns clustered like furry creatures - came out in wide plains - villages colder color - white houses - gray roofs. -
Friday, March 26, 1880.
Will set out for Colorado -
[added material]
# one sister ran out with bunch of flowers for us -
inside - old ceilings in square - old painted wardrobe doors in blue & yellow - benches round sides of room - blue round stove - good to warm backs - 2 steps up - on to back - 2 steps more & then ladder up into chamber overhead -
Kitchen - great stone platform for stove - shelves - showing African sun ---- on walls - pots on shelves over stove - hollowed brick floor - old mother - hospitality showed in everything - tiny balcony with flowers in pots # surrounded by pieces of rock - painting - pans of milk - clean - - - - or scythe sharpening - father dead 4 brothers & sisters - T.H.S. in red letters on one side of roof - whole length of roof - herbs drying in balconies - wood piled in under them - cornices at every gable - woman thrashing in open barn - plaid - hook stuck on end of another stick - bowlegged barefooted & red hdfs - white sleeves to elbow - windows full of geraniums - 1 mark a day! - daughters on streets everywhere
Saturday, March 27, 1880.
[all added material]
old house in Ober A. with same design - Mon. celebrate - Virgin kneeling - cherubs at foot - circle of cherubs around the Dove & two holding the cross in the left hand - God with a white band & full yellow robe & his foot on the round earth - over the door - scrawly pattern in yellow & red over windows - one half window left of the little round panes.
“In Gottes Segen
Is alles flegen” over door
two figures in hall wall - in black -
beds out all over the village - windows & finery - benches - gardens - red - white - blue check (in balconies)
Sunday, March 28, 1880.
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a big ridge around her - all this worn in O. “So think every young woman - “lovers must have long arms.-- while looking at her slip winds to make way for peasant wheeling a barrow full of fresh grass & clover -
Sept. 6 -
- valley widened or rather broadened - because there must have been a way to E. & to W. among the peaks - but it had the effect of a winding - of an half amphitheatre - of lovely meadow brown & yellow & green - dotted with trees - hay wagons winding along roads - Parten Kirchen sunk in a hollow of hills. Opening on the meadow - marvellously beautiful - Church on high hill. with prayer statues every few rods all the way up to it. - Pretty villages & air of comfort & even now in this one narrow street to town - old peasants
Monday, March 29, 1880.
[all added material]
houses close together - like an old Italian town - crowded - no rooms at Post - have to go to another place - walked up on hill - wonderful sunset - streaming anon this meadow - from between the high mts! - Tried[?] in getting supper! -
Sept. 7. -
- drove looking back all the way - -----woman in fields at work - gypsies on the tramp - fair woman, five children - baby in wagon - Mts superb still - foregrounds closing up one after the other - till the bare gray ridge stood like wall - the sharp pale back arms stretched out in benediction - gentians - forgetmenots - anemones - began long before Nuernan to Nuct. O.A. pilgrims - walking - man & woman carrying their shoes - well to do looking people - bundles - whole days walk - carts - diligences - carriages - meadows before long to Nuernan one solid
Tuesday, March 30, 1880.
[all added material]
procession - Nuernan - delightful old town close narrow street - balconies of flowers - railings made into hedges by poppies marygolds & sweet peas, in & out - another with a vase of nasturtiums - & gay flowers above
streets around R.R. station packed full of vehicles - ten white covered wagons -
Sunday, April 4, 1880.
bathed - dinner with Molly -
Monday, April 5, 1880.
Mrs. Cabot at Brevoort for day - dined with Hague’s
Tuesday, April 6, 1880.
Moved over to Berkeley in forenoon - called on Reid in Pm - Annie Bell - Clarkes.
Wednesday, April 7, 1880.
Cold - Lib all day -
Thursday, April 8, 1880.
Cold & clear -
Friday, April 9, 1880.
Went to hear Kate Field in P.m. - coupe’.
Saturday, April 10, 1880.
Clear - windy - raw - at Lib all day -
Sunday, April 11, 1880.
Clear bright - windy - C.D.W all A.m. - R.H.L. in Pm - Mr Ruggles to dinner -
Monday, April 12, 1880.
Clear & cold - Lib. all day -
Friday, April 16, 1880.
Coupe in Am - one hour - drive in Park with Molly.
Saturday, April 17, 1880.
Mrs. Solly in Pm! -
Sunday, April 18, 1880.
Lamborns & Prof. Gardner to breakfast - Coupe’ in eve. to Bottas & Clarks - 2 hours. Warm & summer like & bright.
Monday, April 19, 1880.
Cold as Greenland! - Cloudy - eve. at Bottas, C.D.W.
Tuesday, April 20, 1880.
C.D.W. in Am. had him “Mrs. M” - In house all day. - rainy.
Wednesday, May 26, 1880.
Went to Boston by boat. Annie found me - took her into my stateroom.
Thursday, May 27, 1880.
Boston. Parker House. Fearful heat. Mrs. Hunt at Mr. Fiske’s office.
Saturday, May 29, 1880.
Sailed at 2 Pm. in Parthia.
Monday, June 7, 1880.
Big swell. In berth all day.
Tuesday, June 8, 1880.
Reached Liverpool at 10 P.m. Could not go on shore - Passengers all packed - dressed ready to go on shore - spent two hours signalling for tender - went to bed at midnight - back in same old berths again - Oh so near! - unloading freight all night -
Wednesday, June 9, 1880.
Custom house officers on board at 8 - Went on shore at 10.30 - Drove 3 miles in 2 four wheelers - Adelphi - went to Cunard office & engaged return passage! - after lunch drove about Liverpool - lovely parks -
Thursday, June 10, 1880.
Went to Chester in Am. In Pm. roamed about the town - went to the Free Library - read old histories of the place -.
Fires.
Mailed letter for Will at Liverpool.
Friday, June 11, 1880.
In Free Library in Am. Old histories of Chester - in P.M. drove to Eaton Hall - St. Johns Church - King Charles Tower.
Saturday, June 12, 1880.
Went to Market before breakfast -
Went to London in P.m.
Arrived at 5.00. - - - - - Holhouse Viaduct Hotel - Sun did not set until near nine o’clock, apparently - Went in eve to “Inns on Court.” - to look for rooms - rooms looked out on green field with trees. -
Sunday, June 13, 1880.
Sun shine at 3.30 into my window: ----
Wrote in A.m.
Mr. Conway in P.M. -
Went out to his house in evening -
Mailed letter for Will -
Monday, June 14, 1880.
Walked over to the village - Mrs. Conways reception in P.M. -
Tuesday, June 15, 1880.
Returned to Hotel. -
Mailed first letter for Advertiser - & a letter for Will. -
Mr. Conway came in with car - went to Chalto & Winthrop in P.m. Mr. C. to dinner in eve.
Letters from America. first letter from W. -
Wednesday, June 16, 1880.
India Museum - Matinee in Pm at Gaieties - Sara Bernhardt.
Thursday, June 17, 1880.
Drove to Hempstead in Am - Miss Coates - (The Lodge - Upper Terrace) Stearn’s -
In P.M. Grosvenor Gallery & Dore’ Gallery - walk on Bond St. with Cornelia. Nobility - & old jewelry
Friday, June 18, 1880.
Left London at 10 Am - for Rowsley - 5 hours through green meadows - vales - hills
- oaks - & birches -
Saw Chatsworth in P.m. - ugliest place imaginable! - Party of farmer people went over with us - reverential -
Staid at Peacock Inn - old Manor House of Haddon - Rockery & ferns & pansies &
forget-me-nots & winding walks & summer home - & river & arched bridge behind
the house - & gnats! -.
between London & Rowsley (fields of butter cups & daisies & clover - cows sunk
in them - never lifted a head - geese rose up as we passed in accurate order of
precedence! - fields so small they looked like patchwork - hedges -
Saturday, June 19, 1880.
Drove down to Haddon Hall in A.m. - most interesting old baronial castle! - mist
- drizzle - rain-
“We re getting fine rains now - we ‘ad it very dry in April & May - but now we’re getting fine rains. Good prospect of the ‘ay ‘arvest! - said the driver. -
Took train at 11.20 for Penrith. - arrived at 5.30 - Went to Crown Inn. Horefords went to Mr. Macdougals to stay. -
Stone walls along this route - wilder scenery - moors - bare hills - still the tiny walled fields - yellow brown - child at station with hyacinths & ferns - gave us one -
Sunday, June 20, 1880.
Notice by Wills letters what he was doing on this day. -
Wrote in A.m. - Letter for A.. on Bedford Park. & Pm. Drove - Ruins of Brougham Castle - pillars & walls - red from stones - in green field - Brougham Hall - splendid wall with ivy - avenue of oaks - Edenhall down in a dell by a river - Old coachman - 50 yrs in service of the family - drank out of the Loch of Edenhall, the day Lord Musgraves was christened - 42 years ago - old port - “kind invitation - Mr. & my missus up to Lon’on - Lon’on is a great treat - we’ve got a good house to live in. thank God - we’ll take no harm -
- told me all about the glass kept in iron box in study - 800 years in the family -
Met H.S. & Mr. M. -- Sewage Meadows! - Superb oaks - & grass - but such a smell -.
Monday, June 21, 1880.
Mailed letter for W.
Drove from Penrith to Patterdale on Ullswater Lake - Mr. & Mrs. McDougal went
along - Lunch - row on Lake - past Gobenors Park shore where the daffodils grew
- no daffodils - rocky shore - mossy hollows - rabbits in & out like squirrels
- ferns - pink heather - mts changing color all the time - bare on one side the
lake - wooded & green on the other -
looked & search for “Moss Campion.” - Gone - “a fishing party yesterday - they must have taken it” -
Brute at dinner table - ate onions to tease his wife “Fun to have a wife who doesn’t like onions as you can always eat them.” -
Hotel in little window - rhododendrons -
drive from P. - thick hedges - fields - lake on left for last six miles - fox glove - Star of Bethlehem - superb hedges - thorns on holly - & ash
Tuesday, June 22, 1880.
Drove over Kirkston Pass to Bowman - highest house in Eng! - Made us walk! - barren hills - fine stones like Col. - canyon with stream at bottom - farmhouses - down into verdure again - hedges & ivy walls - Bowman tucked in on steep shore of lake - piers with scarlet lined boats - little station - watering place atmosphere -
- Lovely view of cabin from our windows. - in Pm. - drive to old Fairy - crowd - ferry boat a turn over with a fire & chimney in the - - - - parts - walk up to station” - roofed with Laurel - box - old woman - brother 34 years in america - Miffling Co. United States Pennsylvania America. N.A. She added: - blacksmith - went to Newcastle to be a fitter - I dare say you’ll not be knowing what a fitter is - - - - - in a yr -
Views from station up & down lake - with borigund of laurel- Hotel at Ferry - lovely & quiet - Mr. Morgan - on boat “drought”! - Mysture in the hatmosphere - in the pair -” - old woman in lodge - 34 years there - father in service of Christopher North - “4 rooms - banked coals - bedroom - living room - old swords - Columbus - Waterloo old bureaus - long to look forward but like yesterday. to look back.”
See Jan 1st//
Wednesday, June 23, 1880.
Mailed letter for W.
Rain- everybody walking about comfortable in it, as if it were not. -
Set off at 8.30 - Windermere - Rydal - Rydal Mt - Missed the -ling Gate - H. Martineau - Grasmere - Dove Cottage - old laborer showed it to us - tucked in under bank - white washed stone - tiny rooms - library door opened out doors - stone steps up bank - used to be brown at top of it - Ivy - He used to sit there - Christmas Rose & box planted by him -
rain - Hotel Rothary - old church - graveyard - graves under yews - cloughs monument - old parrish club - grand with Rector - ritualistic. “I caught him hearing confession.”
Mixin’ water with the wine - & he was for changin the bread - havin’ wafers or something of the kind - & elevatin it up s high s even he can - “ a big quarrel - Clubship a freehold office - for life - disappointment to Mrs. Scott, “all along of one neitor too!” - Silow How - Nat Scarr - Lough Rigy - silver vapors - shining turret - “Gold rills” - after lunch drove on to Keswick - Trysting Stone - “Kings arms” - stuffy bedrooms - decided to go to Lodore-,
See Jan. 5: ----
Thursday, June 24, 1880.
Went to Falls before breakfast - like Brattleboro browles - mossy stones - confusion
- old trees beech & oak - views - wild geranium - drove into town - old church
where Southbys statue is - his grave in the yard - bought photography - up & down
Keswick streets - twisted slants - pomp of misb - bits of mt. here & there - train
at 12 for Edinboro: - changed at Penrith - soon struck Scottish soil - knew it
by the broom - names ending in trie. & chan - sparser growths - fires in Canby
- woman in sunbonnet hoeing - plain houses - landscape like N. England - Solway
Firth - gleam of silver & gray - pansies wild on R.R. banks -
Edinburgh at 5. - Palace Hotel - first sight of earth - Chieftain in difficulties whenever all our luggage on a curb -
Mr. Slug out on a leaf - like the one that opened his eye at us on the road! -
Friday, June 25, 1880.
Drove in A.m. over the new part of Edinburgh - crescents & terraces & lines & squares - brown & smooth & bleak & dull. - severe - sad - unadorned - pitiful attempts at decoration with flowers - plaster cart of two horses over in front door! - N. England barns - babies in blk velvet! - wee thing in black straw bonnet & camlet cloak of gray with a cape - preternaturally old -
Parliament House - Outer House in session - lawyers in blk gowns & wigs - walking up & down in outside room - four judges in gowns? behind a red circle - one giving opinion - Room where Walter Scott wrote - Statue of him - “Sic sidebot” - table where he wrote - M-. of Waverly - Egation of Mary -
- picturesque old streets - juts & windows - 8 & 9 stories high - poverty stricken now old homes of nobility -
- Castle all the time pervading the city - it can never be like any other city - Monument to Scott
See Jan. 6.
Sunday, June 27, 1880.
Went in A.m. to church where Gaelic was preached -
Highlanders - those in trade or in service - looked like a rural N.H. audience - wild sweet strains of music - first line cleared out by man in front of pulpit in enclosed space. with railing. - Grave man in pew - wrote on a card & handed to me - “It would appear you do not understand the Gaelic. At least I think so - This minister is not the best at the language. He is a stranger & so far as I can judge acquired it. Not being his mother tongue.” -
Left after 2nd hymn - tried to get in at St. Cuthberts - gates locked - little boy said.
“In Sairvice time they are lockit.” good way to keep people from coming late. Went in P.m. - heard Dr. McGregor - 20 yrs behind the advanced thought of orthodoxy with us - first
“Ho every man that thirsteth” - free gift of salvation - The ---- the soul. The man brings gift to Christ! - The lost sheep & the price of silver as illustrates. is refer to the beggar as the dunghill, as to the queen on her throne good woman though she is”! -
After service to N. Haven. -
Tuesday, June 29, 1880. #
Seven Am. to New Haven.
Wednesday, June 30, 1880.
Drove up to Castle - Steep narrow streets - winding stairs into houses - closes like Edinburgh - glorious view from Castle - Abbey Craig - wooded hill with long spur - at its base the old execution ground - superb meadow - Looks of Firth” - looking about like lakes in the green - striking itself out of sight - clings around its central rock. -“Field Man” - 60 yrs old - had small pox at 10 - went stone blind - Avoid him ever since - Soldiers take care of him “plays the flute the whilst” - “knows every wish” - ------ little village at the foot of the fort - “Rapleigh” “Min saw it spread” - Militia band playing all the time in the barracks - Sentinels in plaid legs & scarlet bodies. Mauling to & fro - “I couldn’t wait in the home just passin’ the time - “Verra nice man in the castle now - & its fine an’ wholesome -“walk the most part of the day”
Well I wish their Good luck. both you & them together ma’am” - “We came an awful distance - went to Inspachr in P.M.
See Jan 9. -
wild roses round base of rock on which castle stand.
Thursday, July 1, 1880.
Mailed letters for Will. Alva S. Niles - C.D.W. - Molly - M.D.C. - In Pm. Drove through Trosachs - “The bristling county” to Loch Katrine - fine gorge - mile long - oaks & birches - covers of ferns - heather & moss on rocks - spaces of brown heather on hill sides - superb shadows & lights all the time. as from clouds - when clouds sail. a third shade comes - change color as if from a pulse at their hearts - greenlined by sun - juniper & larch & spruce - daisies & asters - & orelius - saxifrage - white clover - fox glove - heather pink & purple - great caf-----ing of rock covered with moss - whole ----- fronts of mts - soft like velvet to top - bays & inlets of Loch Katrine - thatch covered walk to the pier landing - trielus - feathery - shimmering - one standing out in sun on a promontory - dark firs in front - great spaces of them making a hill side tremulous with a luminous gray - heather waving high up in bushes - flowers an after thought - gleams on the water the setting sun. -
Friday, July 2, 1880.
Rain. Wrote all Am. letters S.C.W. - Annie - Countess - Barings - Mr. G. with English “Gratis & Camels.” -
Row in boat in the Lake in P.m.
Saturday, July 3, 1880.
Went to Ayr - Shannon on Lake Katrine - carriage to Loch Lomond - Shannon on Loch Lomond to Ballork - train to Glasgow. - Four hours in Glasgow. - Went in Pm. alone to Ayr! - Kings Arms. -
Cotters Sat. night - streets full of men - militia in red coats - poor people - Muddy pavements - walking in middle of street - beggars singing - man. wife - four children - one in arms wrapped in tattered shawl - born but -
drunken soldier under arrest - servant walking behind - crowd following - boys bickering -“Wen Gordie” sign on a restaurant opposite. -
Sunday, July 4, 1880.
Drove to Mauhline - Turbotin &c. - whole day. -
Monday, July 5, 1880.
Took noon train for Dunfries.
Tuesday, July 6, 1880.
Took 7. Am. train for Carlish - waited past two trains for H.s. - finally took train for York at 10. - found them in same train.
Thursday, July 8, 1880.
Sailed for Bergen.
Saturday, July 10, 1880.
Arrived at Stavanger at 9. A.m. - rocky islands. low green growth - thin but vivid verdure - houses with red roofs - tiles - packed close together - gables tiled - windows opening out - flowers in all windows - pots, white cream cold & red - dark gray sanded with red rims - windows half open - pretty faces peering out - steep streets - paved with square blocks - side walks not ten inches wide - high hill with watch tower - sat on bank under it - ash trees below - bays of blue water - green curving promontories - distant mts - superb = old cathedral - solemn gray stone - Norman arches - market - sloops loaded with crockery - made on farms 4 miles off - brown - cream & brown mottled - red & white - bowls - jars - & flower pots - old woman with blue berries - fuchsia - myrtle - & vegetables - parsley - carrots - potatoes - butcher stands - lamb - beef - sausage - fish stands - wooden shoes - painted glossy black. - scooped out of whole piece of wood - butter in newspaper - first sight of carriage -
See. Jan 11.
Sunday, July 11, 1880.
Met Mrs. Steen to whom I had letter from Conways - daughter of Landlord - Rain. - Party of Amer. girls just back from the North Cape - land of the midnight sun - Lapps - etc. - bought old silver tankards & rings etc. -
In the Pm. Mrs. S. took us to drive - lovely country - steep hills - farmhouses in nooks - tarns with pond lilies - woods full of moss covered stones - ferns - brooks - blue bells - snow flake butter cup & clover - peasants in costume going home from church - taking lunch on stone walls - stands with cakes & beer for sale - flag floating at every considerable house! - do this on birth days - wedding days - Sundays -
pretty houses in suburbs of town - terraces - lime trees - ash - birch - summer house - octagon shape - grass -turf on roof - scarlet curtains at windows - looked like fantastic palace guard set down to rest - Norwegian ponies - short cropped manes - “Nils” the driver - odd voice to stop teams - halted when they were tired - sign up by roadside “do not forget to rest the horses - when we returned home - asked into the family room - wine -
See Jan. 14.
Monday, July 12, 1880.
Rain - fine steady drizzle - Interpreter with washerwoman at 8 - driver scene. - put room to rights - wrote to W. - Walk alone in P.m. - Dinner at Mrs. Steen’s in the eve. at 6. o clk.
-Went alone into shops - little boxes at door with a few spoons in them - go in - climb stairs or narrow passages - into family room - past kitchen stove & rockers - work room opening out - old ladies knitting - all rise - friendly greeting - bring out old box out of closet - tip it out on table - rings - clasps - buttons - spoons -
“How much?” - send it to be weighed - return - few words in Norsk - mysterious - then the price is given. -
Found peasant woman with her lover looking at the crown for her wedding - by signs asked her to put it on - “oh ne-ne -“ hid her face in her hands - finally put it on - & then could not look at herself enough! - Lover came up behind & touched it - human nature - dicker over the price - I left them - the very next door were the juniper boughs trodden & broken - a funeral had been there - custom to
See Jan. 15.
Tuesday, July 13, 1880.
Clear sunshine - warm - went to fur store in Am. Superb eider down robes - robes of feathers - barbarian cross fox skins - - white bear skins - all sorts of sea birds plumage made into muffs & tippets -
In P.m. - went on a cruise among old silver shops - with Mrs. Steen & the Interpreter girl - (when an Amer. party left their boat & went on shore.
Somewhere - far at the north - a Norwegian started up on their path ejaculating “Turpentine” & striking his breast! - At first they feared contagion! & thought he was begging for turpentine - but at length discovered that he was offering himself as interpreter! I saw some shops where I had been before - down in lanes & closes - pretty new silver - spoons with twisted handles & knobs on top - trinkets indescribably for peasants wear all dangles & hollow disks & rings - gay trunks on the sidewalks for sale - bright scarlet with gay flowers - wooden boxes also - oblong willow peaks at each end Jan. 7.
Wednesday, July 14, 1880.
Went in Am to try on my peasants costume - 3 sisters making it - how much we conversed by signs - that a particular shade of flannel are not to be got in all Bergen - that such & such ornaments were more “national” - ! &c. - pantomime is limitless in fervor
Fish market afterward - little harbor between two quays - huge Jagts - loaded with lumber - sloops with brown & yellow ware - dishes around - small boats crowded in the quays - packed - wedged - fish in their bottoms - herrings & smolten - a red fish - mackarel - salmon - eels - crowd chiefly women - leaning over railing- leaning through it - on knees with arms stretched down - pointing gesticulating - poking the fishermen if they did not answer - with “fisherman do you hear me do you hear me,”? - steps leading down to water crowded with women - “why do not fall in” ? - “It happens”, said Mrs. S. -
Stairs farther up the square - “fish that have died” - “for poor people” -
Eels squirming in tubs - “too small said one & she
Jan 18 -
Thursday, July 15, 1880.
Valestrand on Osterven
Set off at 7 A.M. by boat for Valestrand - crowd at wharf - took on two lighters full of wood - one of cotton bales. (crept out - due at V. at 8.30 - did not arrive till 10.30 - illustrative of statement in guide book about hours of boats starting is “never can be depended on” to arrive or leave within 2 hours of time mentioned.” -
- The way to V. up one of the two fjords - rocky islands & red roofed houses in rocks - houses topped with sods on roof - walls also of sods or of heather thatch - lovely dark brown with yellow roofs - peasant girl with purple apron - black jacket edged with purple & gold - silver ornaments - white blouse - hair in two long thick braids - clear gray eye - & independent bearing - silk umbrella - breakfasts served on board - humble people ate crackers from baskets - others had coffee - bread & sausage - all prepared in a tiny cubbyhole on deck - little boats pushed off from shore to bring passengers to us - & to take them on shore - great Jagt with high brow coming in - little boat loaded full of juniper boughs - looking like an island rowing itself along -
See Jan. 24.
Saturday, July 17, 1880.
Market at 7. Am - fish market - boats hurrying in - silver herrings - scooped up with shovel - boat silvered with their scales - fish vermillion & white - others iridescent opal - black tubs with dark blue bails - writhing in death - changing color every second - boys holding flower pots with plants - huge mouthed fish - ugly head, man sliding over it with knife - boats coming in - peasant woman - few green twigs at each boat - pi- - scrubbing under rails, holding on my edge of wharf - chaffing for prices - women walking off with one fish - two - three - man in dark blue carrying three vermillion fish swinging in each hand - groups of peasants squatting on tubs, or pails with their few little things to sell.--
- old woman sewing patches on two rugs - with her spectacles on - others knitting - some milk stuff in tubs - butter in newspaper - potatoes in sacks - parsley in baskets - bunches of flowers - onions - young turnips & roses together -
group with only greens - juniper - moss - heath - wreaths of moss with yellow flowers - of Scotland & Kinnikinnick -
group with salt fish - in tubs - little shop with bowl of flowers - white harebells - roses - border of yellow lilies & tiger lilies & ferns -
Jan. 27.
Sunday, July 18, 1880.
Peasant at 7 - would we have coffee? - Bob flew at her - she retreated - children sent to find strawberries for our breakfast - after breakfast - sitting in parlor - spoke of Bob’s being put in the steamer - he went under the chairs - picture of misery - I said - Bob - don’t you want to go in the steamer? - he crawled under the sofa! - now to floor - eyes piteous - when we went to look on him he had disappeared! - ran up the road after a carriage - - we followed him - then gave it up - walked to steamer - posted a letter - in five minutes after the steamer started - there came Bob - down the road - tail wagging - a transformed dog - he had heard the whistle - & hid himself -
Three hotels at Eide - Northlands is best - pretty cottage - fronting the fjord - garden in front - arch over gate with vine on it - currant bushes - on side bit of rolling meadow - half shorn in patches - hay drying on fences - can hang this way for 2 weeks & not be hurt - little patch mowed at a time - so that there are different shades of color - in the smooth part - houses thatched with layers brick back under the boards of the roof - sods on top - grass & ferns growing - on them - one a perfect bed of wild pansies & a tiny pink blossom
Jan. 29.
Monday, July 19, 1880.
mailed letters for W.
Wrote in Am. In Pm. went in peasant cart - to farm houses high up on hills. cart on two wheels - high - wood seat on raised wooden rails - put on front edge of wagon- no dasher - horse without thills - draws by collar - rope reins - Driver stands behind - walked most of the way - climbed up to farm - 3 miles to north of village - covered bridge - foaming foss - driver got white blouse - proud to be homeluk -
- wonderful views as we lifted - valley rounded & sareh - new hills came into view - cluster of old buildings - slabs of slate on roof - irregular shapes lapped - moss grown - some of the houses thatched - birch bark first & then sods above - waving with grass & pansies & raspberry bushes! - Mrs. S. explained that I had come from America & wished to see the N. houses - faces brightened - “every one in Voss has a relative in America” - old woman knitting came toward us - 84 -
See Jan 31.
Tuesday, July 20, 1880.
Rain - superb - lifting & splitting of clouds on mts - Eng. party one hour in getting off - the Norwegians roosting on pier watching -
“When a Norwegian says immediately, look for him in half a hour.” -
- New carriage - taking to pieces & putting together again. - finally went off in close darkness. - Lunch at 12 - set off at 1 - Rain - In boots to our shins - little seas of water to be emptied to right & left every few minutes but we were dry inside. -
funeral in churchyard - peasants dispersing - women with white hdfs folded in narrow bands over the shoulders & hanging in front to the waist. -
- through the rain for an hour or two - snow on hills in & out of view. - bleak walls on either side came to a lake with sloping meadows & woods all around it - bleak hills - half a dozen houses - a church - but surprise - one pretty house with side covered by vines - pastors house - went in - all over it - comfort - 3 rooms - library parlor & dining room - flowers - curtains - books - stopped at wretched inn to feed horses - half way -
See Feb. 7.
Wednesday, July 21, 1880.
Breakfast at 6.45 - to take 7.30 boat - sat round waiting till 9. - sat in borne by little boat - Gudvagen very grim in morning light - sailed down the Ners fjord - high mts - some bare - some wooded - wild as the Nerodal Pass - sheer to water - [hundridg] of but high - bare cone - ------ & rifts on either side - Aurland Pass - on fjord - opening up to right - found its mouth & went in Bay for Sognidal -
- found fresh fruit orchard in Sundivonia - hilly slopes - small - pretty house with two wings & a tower - “am acquainted with use” - a widow - must sell this place now - old yellow church in stones like blanc-mange moulds of two sizes smaller above curves - bleak wooden spire - pretty tower - on green slopes - hills retreated - hotel by waters edge. Small cottage - dotted round - across to another ----- & so on zigzagging out - Judges home on shore - ----- staid 3 weeks there - spread oak tree by home. garden & orchard - large home four rooms a floor - 7 in family -
“long three weeks” - no amounts to read alone - little music in eve. - again across the mouth of the Aurland -Fjord looked like great lake - superb hills like wall across it -
See Feb. 13.
Thursday, July 22, 1880.
Slept late - at noon went with Mrs. S. to see the Jagts come in - splendid great bulky creatures - like the old Viking ships - their prows curling up high out of water as if they trod it defiantly - one huge square sail above their one mast - ten came sailing in all after the others - colors flying - anchored - & dropped their sails - one had a scarlet flag with a yellow crown on it - “The Kings Jagt” - the King had been on board her & had sent afterward a present of this silk flag. - Got old boatman to row us under her sides - asked if we might go on board. - oh how high she was - climbed up the shaking ladder - then up the same ladder again to the top of the mt of fish! - the whole cu- of the ship solid mass of cod - above my head. - barrels of oil - also - Capt took us down into cabin - roomy & comfortable - name “Ellida” - only four days from Hiligolad - had been four weeks - if the wind is from the south cannot make any headway - old man rowed us across to the other side of the harbor - foot of market place - climbed up the high hill - looked back at the masts - colors - & gay roofed houses all painted in the background of the strong hill.
Supper at Mrs. Steens.
Friday, July 23, 1880.
Wrote all Am. In Pm. went to Bank for letters - to shoemakers - & umbrella makers - & dressmakers - & old silver dealers, with Mrs. Steen. -
Very tired - went to bed at nine -
Dreamed horrible dream this night - of black crape veil. -
Saturday, July 24, 1880.
Ill - In room all day -
Sunday, July 25, 1880.
Still in Room - a little better -
Monday, July 26, 1880.
Still in Room - Mrs. Steen’s aunt came up with her to see me - charming old lady - 73 - not a tooth - face & a mouth like a babys - bright dark blue eyes - gay - gregarious - gesticulates - talks faster than S. can translate - told another ghost story - walking in public garden with a friend - saw a old woman in a white night cap & short bedgown - arms extended. sawing them up & down - she did not dream it was a ghost - began to laugh - turned to her friend who was fainting - It was her mother - afterwards - her friend had a long fit of illness - remembered the sailor as though it were yesterday -
Prof. H. came in Pm - & Mr Alexander Bull - they went down to Lysoen - Mr. Ole Bull very ill. -
Letter from Mr. Goddard. -
Tuesday, July 27, 1880.
Much better. -
Wednesday, July 28, 1800.
Cloudy & raw in Am - Droll experience trying to get fire - Mrs. Steen - left Bergen
Drive at noon - for half an hour - felt pretty shaky - call from Huldah Beritzen willing to go to Christiania with me. -
In room all day -
Thursday, July 29, 1880.
Rain - in Room all day -
Prof. H. came up - Mr. Alexander Bull -
Friday, July 30, 1880.
Took short drive - Prof H. returned to Lysoen. - Letter from Mrs. Bull urging me to go to Lysoen.
Saturday, July 31, 1880.
Set out at 11 for Christiania - with Katrina - went off in flying colors - said my Norwegian sentence to each member of the family - went from wharf in little boat - elbowed in among 12 others - met by Capt with “this impossible”! - stateroom engaged for days! -.
Tuesday, August 3, 1880.
Sun in at 3 windows at 6. Am. - sent Katrina out on errands of investigation - as to books - & vegetables! - She returned with 2 turnips - 1 carrot - a brown paper busting with raspberries in front of her - held by left hand - “I think I shall not get them home. After I get the others in my hand.” - droll sight - her face blushed with eager interest -
Oranges. I was asking for oranges. it is a month ago since they leaved Norway - What?
“A month ago since they were to sea in Christiania - “ -
Drive in P.m. up to Grefsens Bad - water c---- - lovely place high up - rocky ledge at back of it - covered with pines & firs - - green fields in foreground - little home with four gla- - sides - beautiful off look - fjord - out toward the sea - hills on each side of it - Christiania in hollow at head of it -
K. - This is place where
See Feb. 20.
Wednesday, August 4, 1880.
Clear air - felt better than at any time yet -
- Set out at 11 for Frogen Soetueu. - back at 5. - tired.
Houses in Christiania - in center of city - in blocks - with no beauty - many of them with
Thursday, August 5, 1880.
Wrote in Am. - walked in P.m. -
Letters from - C.D.W. - Molly - Annie B. - Priscilla - Mr. Wood - S.C.W. - Mr. Fiske - & 3 from Will. - down to 11th J.
Friday, August 6, 1880.
Went to steam kitchen - & to market - wooden boxes on low wheels - with two uprights - set up at each end - awning & hooks with clothes hanging on them - top of box making table - vendor sitting behind - stalls of baskets - wooden articles - fruits in shallow baskets - boots - hay - juniper - little braided slippers of 27/100 of a quarter of a dollar! - old clothes stalls! -
Stevre Sigundson -
Olaf -
Harold Haarfager -
Olaf Trygsesson -
velvet panels on walls - Kings chairs - “Many kings have sat in there - carved woodwork - kings arms over the doors - c. in medallions in the ceiling - blue & red frescoes - in bedroom - in Frithiofs says “May be Ingeborgs on that writing table - in - - - - - of golden & brown woods -
bedroom - little green curtained bed - plain oak furniture - green velvet walls -
Alm & Valbirk
See Feb. 24.
Saturday, August 7, 1880.
K. bought a little paper of odds & ends & stuck it under my nose “ain’t dat nice smell?” - on my approving - she left it on my table, remarking I could just keep it & smell ven I liked - “I the writer. She said they put it on the stove - & when it was hot it made the room smell beautiful - dey call it “King’s Smoke” -
“Well as sure as I am living if you don’t make up big books - ven I get back to Bergen I going round in all the book stores to ask if they havent any of your books --
Sunday, August 8, 1880.
Drove to Horefos. - Mad Kladveds Hotel. - porch with great slabs of slate for floor - walled in with open work wooden frame - flowerpots standing in that - above - a thick wall of morning glories to the top - hardly a glimmer though - a few pink & white flowers on inside - bees in them - Three great rooms - sitting room - surrounded with old panels - painted 100 years ago - costumes quaint - allegory of the suges - interspersed with bits of - - - - - turns - but some coloring to houses as now -
- 60 rooms - new ones in wing furnished in panels & dados - on cloth - painted in gay colors - an open work pattern in wood laid on the dado - white on apple green with a lavender above! - white on scarlet, with brown above - flesh color in tan with brown above! - neat as wax. - big room with 4 windows - Queen had slept in it - washcloth about half a yd square! - tiny beds - ancient dressing table gilt on brown - with painted marble top - old glass slanted above it - two little candle holders below it with prisms - “Tish nobody be sick forever & put candles in dere” -
Feb. 28.
Monday, August 9, 1880.
Wrote in Am. - In P.M. drove with Landlord & K. - to see two farm houses - one high up in clearing - rocky edge at back of it covered with pines & firs - new - just finished - family waiting for it to be dry - two story - oblong - high - 5 windows in side - road to it between the barns & granaries - long low house for farm - all red - front door & porch facing there - “like better to set & look at his cows - & his servants & see that they work” - Kitchen well fitted with shelves - drawers - cupboards - rack on wall for dishes - shelf overhead - stove & huge stone raised hearth in corner - square - canopy over it - four rooms on floor - dados of one sort of paper - walls of - - - the frightful glowing colors - not a closet - one big wardrobe in hall - rooms upstairs & down alike - bed for servant in space under the stairs, sliding door into it! 0 opens from kitchen -
Then went to another farm - One of the richest - house looked like pretty summer cottage - 2 -
Feb. 26. -
Wednesday, August 11, 1880.
Wrote in Am -
In P.M. drove with Nevils - to Nordhoug Church & King Oscars church ruins - had just been funeral at church - flags at half mast - along the way - one each side of church gate - road strewed with green - aisle of church - bunches of juniper & pine at each pew - wreaths hanging - pulpit draped in blk cloth with white stars on it - low bier draped with black - green all around it - in front of altar - 40 candles burning.while this body lay there was a old lady 96 years old - rich widow. -
went to side room - looked down trap door - man lifted off lid of coffins - Mr N & his wife went down - I did not - could see her face distinctly & the outline of ribs - they said she looked like a old plaster cast. -
went into parsonage & saw the bullet holes in walls - log walls - clearing light blue color - delightful room - 6 windows - E.S.W. - room with expression to it. - then drove to ----- of K. Oscars church - fine farm house near - sat on porch - woman asked us in - showed us thru rooms - fine oak cabinet - delft vases - elks head -
March 4
Thursday, August 12, 1880.
In Am. Drove to Hosefos - paper factory - in hollow of spruce forest - clearing & length to set a few houses & their mills - fall fine - 2 sides of a square miniature Niagara - pine logs cut into lengths about 14 inches - then split by axe - then converted - then piled into great iron wheel - working in water - carve out pulp - & water - sifted - running through troughs & pipes - carried up into huge hopper & ground still finer - then rolled in layers over the rollers - on woolen cloth - brought out as newspaper sheets and rolled off - thin folded & put into press - dripping water from this - sent to Eng. in boxes - to be mixed with linen & made over again - cleared $7000 a year at this mill - worked night & day - except Sunday from 6. till 6. - overseer had $40 a month - way back through miles of pines & spruce - linnia. -
At 1.30 drove to church to see wedding - bride in stiff white silk - Illusion veil to her feet - trimmed with tiny bunches of green myrtle - & a chaplet of green in front - with little wreath behind backing the vine on - bouquet - groom in dress coat! - stood
March 1st -
Friday, August 13, 1880.
Wrote in Am. - Mr. & Mrs. Nevil called - Mr. Gade - went in P.m. with Gades to see the ruins of old monastery on island in harbor - beautifully wooded - limes - poplars & birches - berries & flowers - greenery nooks - story opens with views on harbor - thyme & trillium & blue bells - sweet clover - & “Marys Golden Shoes - little yellow vetch. - Melon & gooseberries & wine - served for refreshment on the top of the hill. in an observatory -
powder magazines - home of the keeper - views of the monastery - bit of town & stair - critters in broken walls - divisions of rooms - cloister - carved cornices shading round in bits - arches - baby’s skeleton found in wall! - Abbots will - cold water - row house over water of gold - hills in W. & N.W. turning purple & amber - Norwegian songs in summer night. -
Saturday, August 14, 1880.
Wrote in Am. In P.M. Drove to Frogner - & then with the Gades to the Botanical Gardens -
quaint old Prof. in a linen coat - with his scissors in a heavy sheath on one side & his pruning knife on the other - house on terrace - deep sunk dormer windows - caving & low-tiled roof - in shade of two great horse chestnut trees one so old that grass grew in its knots - superb Begonias - one house filled with 1 shrubs - varieties of color - shape & leaf - Palms - & ferns - high palm - Gloxinias - velvety bells - pink & purple & violet - & blue - with white edges -
Victoria Rigia - lolling in its tank - Seven huge leaves at anchor - bud ready to open - tomorrow or next day - terrific heat - warned to move around the room as fast as possible into the next room - not accustomed to heat - this plant from seed of last years - terrace filled with Chinese & Japanese plants - all live here out of doors - 10 varieties of Indian Corn -
Sunday, August 15, 1880.
Wrote all day! In the eve. drove about the city & went to station to meet the Hs. - Mr. Alexander Bull came with him. -
Monday, August 16, 1880.
Drove out to Frogner in A.M. . & to Bennetts & other places to make inquiries -
In P.m. drove out to see if the Victoria Rigia had blossomed: not yet! - old professor said it would be out between 11 & 4 the next day - “the bud is so” - & between 8 o clk & 2 this day it have grown so - out of the water. -
Tuesday, August 17, 1880.
Went to Dr. Kairrins in Am. with Miss Allyn - then to see old Vikings ship - first one in curious old house built in style of old churches & carved - hulk resting on stays as a ship being built - oiled & varnished - black. - piece of this last one out side - next to other house - old ship - in two parts - cut in two to excavate it - broken timbers - flaky in places - yet staunch - mast support in cabin like hollowed root of an oak - holes for oars - rudder - oars - bits of old peacocks feathers been found in it - human bones - & those of dogs & horses -
3 trays full of old bits of metal ornaments - silver & gilt & lead - from harness & armor - a ring of serpent with head - his mouth - slides - buckles - bones - 1 with a knight like figure on horse - little horse head carved - belt heads - exquisitely carved - unspeakable emotions with which we looked at them - who was it? - afterwards went into parlor - old chain armor - old carved doors & pillars - sledges with brakes like birds -
- cans full of all
March 5.
Wednesday, August 18, 1880.
Shopping with Katrina in Am. - glass & china - drove to Botanical Garden in Pm - Victoria Rigia not out - Ks horror at the heat. -
Supper at Gade’s in eve. -
Thursday, August 19, 1880.
Dr. Kairrin in A.M. - packed - set off at 2.30. - on boat - Landlord offered us carriage - bouquets on seats! - K. went to wharf - Slowly down the beautiful fjord - Christiania beautiful in the hollow of the hills - warm day - as the sun got a little higher - the west side of the fjord softer & softer - more woods - green meadows - islands - clearings & houses - gay towns - homes yellow red - white all with old looks & odd shapes - stopped at sound - at Moss - 6 took off bags of bran going to Deyenarch. We found corn - woman with apples & pears - red on one side - children with cherries - bare brown feet - curled & uncurled their toes in nervousness as people twist fingers. - flowers in hand - myrtles in pots - nice little staterooms - 2 sofas & a square washstand between with a shut lid. -
Capt. with 3 stars on each corner of coat collar - fjord opened & narrowed - farms of bright green walled in dark firs - hamlets with old churches white with black spires - half an hour at piers - loading on the bags each man with a bag on his shoulders - one to help him lift it up. - Went through little canal - right into the town - short cut out into fjord at 6. Got supper - Norwegian Supper - cold - all sorts of smorg-
March 6.
Friday, August 20, 1880.
Arrived at Frederikshaven at 10 Am. - Fiedrik night - sofa which looked so fine - narrow & hard - not a mattress! - Got pillows at last - hard as the sofa! desperately ill! -
Lay at F. from 10. till 3. - unload 400 bags of bran - sailors with green hoods on with tails down their back to keep the bran out of their necks -
Saturday, August 21, 1880.
Reached Copenhagen at 5. Am - Saw every first class Hotel in city before seven - breakfasted at 8 - Slept till 11 - lunch after - & drove all over the city in the Pm. - Esplanade with dike round it - & high walk - close to sea - old fortification -
Exchange - red brick - old - 1619 - put to rights - 1858 - Spire with two dragons twisted together - tails up - 3 gilt balls - & 3 ----- - & carved gilt weather cock at top - long buildings with 6 dormer windows 2 stories high - between every two windows below - a statue made in the body of a woman or a girl & or a man - arms off - ----- & shoulders - 4 --------- where the legs ought to be - heads in an pointed arch over each lower window - no two alike - showed old man - young man - arched doors below 1 enlarging is - 6 more windows - ---- of the sea opposite crowded with ships
Old spire is by a tower - upper part open in odd oblong openings not an arch at all.
- Our Saviors Church - Old ----- droll little flat down round ----- painted green - on ...hing tile roof - belfry with square - old dial - - old black & blue - above it a spire but six sided & then round - covered with copper - green in places - spiral staircase outside! - painted yellow. - 288 ft high! under the ball 12 people can stand! -
Ware houses for grain on the streets along the water - 7 stories high - old drab sh-----folded back - chain from property ridge, pole -
March 13
Sunday, August 22, 1880.
Drove out to Aunger in morning - watched for carriageman for balcony he waiting down stairs - little miller cart - on two wheels - shining tin measurers on top - three white pitchers - gentleman breakfasting on side walk - busy road stands white with blue edges - fine customer in scarlet coat & knee britches - horse cars with high roof over seats on the top - drive out across arms of the sea - sloops & schooners returned with fish drying on cords from rope to rope - peasant woman - carts - 2 women on front - men sitting in floor behind - sunbonnets - showed front covering for over face - flying cape behind - dark blue aprons - hdfs - either white or gay crossed on the breast - others with 3 cornered hdf pinned outside bonnet - point flying behind - some of them embroidered - ----- clean with black satin on felt bonnet - poke in front - little full crown hanging down in back - the fronts tied under this with narrow ribbons behind. -
Aunger - 4 miles square - flat as partiband - seems flatter - went in - all farms - not a fence - a few hedges and homes - some thatched - roof held on by crooked sticks tied together by pins where they cross at ridge pole - gives the ridge the effect of being trimmed.
[transcribers note: hdfs - handerkerchiefs]
March 10. -
Tuesday, August 24, 1880.
note book,
Holes in each corner - skulls in ----- every inch inlaid & carved - jewels - snake curled up - skull -Curious little almanac - 1647 - rolled up like measure -
Ornaments of Fard.s time - pearl ornaments - fish of pearl with curled tail enamel - large pearl with ruby - emeralds facing from it - mermaid of pearl.
Thursday, August 26, 1880.
Set off at 6.45. - Scene in Hotel - nobody up - 500 crowns wound into masks & hdcoverings - sat up till 10. waiting for it. - Child of Nature began operations by going up to my vacated room & waiting there for me - frightful bundle in stained old curtain with the rings hanging! - 2d class car - Roeskilde - Ringsted - Siro. - one great farm - all the way - hedges - hayricks - some up on legs - farm houses with walls of trees round them like Illinois prairies - thatched roofs - dorner window in thatched roof - sides of homes thatched - clover 2d crop = lands lined with rows of trees - bush woods & firs - superb - loaded wagons of grain - woman gleaning - windmills in motion - Came to Kosor - boat for Kiel - 1 hour! - Seven - Kiel at 4.30 - rough. every body ill - S.E. wind. - Got up to Station at Kiel - threading our way up through the carriages - as crude in waiting room - took refuge in Station Masters room - custom house porter - out of the C.of N. with keys - 2 ½ hours to wait! - dinner - changed early train in the dark - reached Lubeck at 4. - Spires & foliage & a full moon
Friday, August 27, 1880.
Went to Mary’s Church - at 12 - figures coming out of church - little white statue with gilt brown struck the hour - 2 doors opened - out behind 8 figures - bound to the church & went in at a door - gulping bread - Dance of death in Chapel - 20 figures at end by Deaths - Negro in white robe = each making excuse - Pope - emperor - King - grim reaper - soldier - peasant - notices below - what each says - fine old basers - carved - Jacobi - Kricko - Altar ---- Church - Stone - shut in behind winged doors - Argonauts with 5 sons on our side - scarlet robes trimmed with fur - wife with 5 dairy herd the other side - 3 maids with high boulder hills - cases on head - white robes trimmed with ermine - wore scarlet gowns - open way down past tight scarlet boddices - 2 little ones in front -
Crucifixion & cross at foot of crown -
The Prussias - pretorians shut up him - hurt it very much -
wife in gold brocade - cup-flying sleeves - bodice - carrying long feather in her hand - - - buried under four feet - McCamption in Rathskeller in Cork on one side & bara on the other - g----es of each color over it - high fit----
closed door by which they came from in church ----yard.
March 20.
Saturday, August 28, 1880.
Set off at 6.30 for Cassel. - farms - and brick houses - & barns - thatched roofs - high - tiny window at top - 3/4 - thatch - latticed bark ends - meadows - great bulk woods - Yellow brown & green - illuminated trunks - starts of soft pines - brown spaces with worn paths leading off - so worn! hedges everywhere - k.k. bales thicket & hedged. - mt. ash trees scarlet full - horse chestnut orchards - gardens - towns every few minutes - bit of marsh & tongues of water as if the sea reach up - fresh? It must be ma’am, in as much as the white lilies are floating beautiful & large in it.”
huddle of red tiled roofs among trees - river with high banks - “Oh! Oh!. Talk about scenery in Denmark - It is too flat. - I am so used to the flat country that the least hill is so beautiful.” - town - on shore of river - slipping in. -.
meadows with silver brown & silver gray willows in hedges & slopes -
“How strange it was. On the 3 he thought he would get a grand bit of greenery for his birthday
present - & he would be in Berlin on his birthday - instead of that the Governors were in Paris on his birthday -
Towns every minute - all “stats” or “berg” or dorf -
Thatched hay ricks in meadows -
March 23 -
Sunday, August 29, 1880.
In house all day -
Monday, August 30, 1880.
Set off at 5.22 for Munich - scene at station - driver demanded 7 marks! - gave him 4.50. - Emigrants setting off - baby rolled up in comforter - toddling thing! with bundles -
“Two ships with 200 sailed from Copenhagen - mourners -
“The fellows that took them - with his gold spectacles. I could have killed him in a ‘ain.”
I dare say they’ll be entirely enough after they see what theyve done. Burgher Young is dead but there must be some on his place who carries it on well.”
Environs of Cassel - lovely. dark wooded hills - castle - old ruin at top - Welhelrushobe. & had gone to top of it - white stoned houses - latticed on - with red tiled roofs - villages every few miles - hugged up round their churches - wh. squilled like a ecoles clisti girl hen with her brood around her - good farms - mowing green - women at work - raking - bits of red on their heads. - 1 nicht ranches - car opening all though & no door between! - changed cars in 2 hours from C. - Fuldan high upon plateau - park in sight to south - Newdorf - strange round towers with tops like parapets - 1st story
March 25 -
Tuesday, August 31, 1880.
Wrote in a.m. - went to see Fraulein at noon - to Bakers in P.m. - wrote again - till bedtime -
Wednesday, September 1, 1880.
Set off for Ober Ammergau at 10.45 - arrived at 6. -
Thursday, September 2, 1880.
In P.M. drove to Unter Ammergau - horse could not stand still - einspann - haying in valley - houses stone under white straw - upper story wood - wooden shutters - pointy roofs held down by stones - upper stories buried & latticed & with balconies tucked in high up - unpainted dark wood - shutters - running water in ditches along road - clothes on fences along street - barns joined to houses everywhere - jogs of balconies - projecting balconies - projecting gables - window sashes bad - some old houses panes round - 100 years old - dormer on one - it broke up - place with square - flowers painted on inside of shutters - wonderful frescoes in old houses - over tops of windows - Virgin & child -
Old house front covered with frescoes - 1700 - inscription in front - birth place of Max Anich - Canon of St. Zeno!- fresco - St. Francis - lying on his back - with his cross - Coronation of Mary - God the father - Son - & Holy Ghost - Gd. with his hand on the globe - Christ putting crown on Mary in red & blue - Christ half reclined - and robe of God - yellow & red - St. Joseph with Christ on his knee.
March 26 -
Friday, September 3, 1880.
Issa Khattan from Bethlehem with his tray full of rosaries - &c - to sell - went to see Frau. Rutz & get her to have her picture taken -
- “If it had another head!” - washerwoman - at 11. to have childs photo taken & Frau Rutzs - she took the idea at once - came with her tools in a basket - baby boy brightened & stood alone. as I had for her - H. & I sat on seat under mossy apple trees while it was being taken - family in next house taking dinner under trees - bloom on hill - seemed to bend towards the village. -
in Pm. Drove to Ettal. -
Saturday, September 4, 1880.
Went to Mass at 8 A.m. - Peasants - bare footed little ones coming down the aisle with their hands devoutly clasped - old women with blk hdf tight - round their heads. long ends hanging behind with gay colors. -
gay colors - decorations in Church - 5 altars - priest & acolyte at each - tinkling bells - strangers all bowing - going & coming -
Wonderful old woman from Dachauer - brocade jacket sleeves puffed out at shoulder tight to wrist - open in front - gold & silver braid beneath - nine silver buttons each side - scarf of blk silk with round great wonderful silver twisted ornament for clasps - all from her grandmother ! - black woolen petticoat in flutes to ankles edged with scarlet - also her grandmothers - blue stockings embroidered in white - apron of plaited silk - brick red & black & rumpled colors - undescribable head dress of brocade ribbon built up with horns - & floating behind - four young girls in blk uniform with her from a school. -
went to carving school - crowd at schoolhouse opposite for tickets - woman at window - friendly women. -
March 28 - robe around her waist under clothes -
Sunday, September 5, 1880.
At Passion Play all day, from 8 A.m. till 5. p.m.
Monday, September 6, 1880.
In morning went to Passion Play again for one hour - then to call on Alma & her mother - then to Frau Rutzs - parlour - engaged carriage for Parten Kirchen at 3.30. - no carriage! - Landlord said -----ly “He was an Innsbruck man & probably got another party going farther -“ 4 different men said they would go - & then said they wouldnt! -
At last - off at 4.10 - stopped to pick thistles - superb clouds hanging around tops of mts. as we drove up the valley - last look at Kobel - & Ober Ammergau - Ettal - then down fearful hill - woods - a precipice up on an side & a precipice down on the other - were at bottom - met people toiling up - dozens - village of Oberau. at bottom of hill - turned sharply to right & went up a valley - grand mts on left - torrents & tracks of torrents down sides - high mts in front - & on right - beautiful green valley - river low & hidden in it - valley widened - towering bald range came in sight - to south - below it & in relief on it. - lower range of green hills - sunset bright - turning the rocky summit pink - clouds far below the tops of the highest mts - filling in clefts - & gorges
March 28 -
Tuesday, September 7, 1880.
Seven in the morning - off - bare peaks silver grays - Zag Spittel like Edingbur Castle lifted to the sky - great gorges face north - sharp peak like - -dle - ------- peaks below
[Helen has sketched, in her diary, how the mountains look]
Eschenhols - at foot of knot of hills - Akide green hotel with pink niches at corners & a pair in each corner - church a little round hill above village - Christ on Cross. Balconies full of carnations - red - Superb gorge -with peaks on right & left like castles -
[again Helen has sketched the view]
- before coming to Eschenhols - road through valley - between sunrises - one after another - splendid dusty beams - slating through gorges -
March 29. -
Thursday, September 9, 1880.
Set off at 6.45 for Paris - -----ed by 8.5 at Augsburg. - Reached Strasburg at 5.40. - were in Cathedral at 6! -
Friday, September 10, 1880.
Went from Strasburg to Paris. Reached Paris at 5.15 Hotel Albion. -
Saturday, September 11, 1880.
At Dressmakers & driving about from 9. Am. till 4! -.
4 Letters from Will - from Annie - S.C.W. - Jessy Brou & Harpers. -
Hot day.
Sunday, September 12, 1880.
Cloudy & raw - in room all day - wrote letters & for the Advertiser - “The Etlnooshin Museum-
Monday, September 13, 1880.
Went to dressmakers in Am - Shopping in P.M. -
Tuesday, September 14, 1880.
Wrote in Am - went shopping alone with Commissionaire - in Pm. with Alma to dressmakers-
Wednesday, September 15, 1880.
Wrote in A.m. - letter from Sally - Gade - mailed letter for Will. -
Thursday, September 16, 1880.
Shopping & dressmakers -
Friday, September 17, 1880.
Shopping all day.
Saturday, September 18, 1880.
ditto!
Sunday, September 19, 1880.
Rain. Wrote all day long.
Monday, September 20, 1880.
Horrible day - ! - out all day long - nothing ready! -
Tuesday, September 21, 1880.
Horrible day - driving from place to place trying on things.
Wednesday, September 22, 1880.
Went to London - Alma left me at Dover - Reached London at 6.P.m. - 13 Bury St. 4 flights up - garret room! -
Thursday, September 23, 1880.#
Breakfast at 8 - packed up at 7 - left house at 8.30 - found rooms at Batts’s - moved before 10! - drove to Barings - Chates & Windoss - book shops. -
Sunday, September 26, 1880.
Horrible fog. Wrote all Am. Russian legend about St. Nicholas - that he & Martin Luther over heard a theological dispute & agreed to settle it by a walking match - so many hundred versts up a mountain - neither to have any assistance beyond a stout walking stick. - St. N. blown before half way up - Luther came back triumphant but with empty hands - Where is your stick? Son of a dog, cried St. N.
“An’t please you I ate it, said M.L. - stick had been made of good black puddings twisted together & he had nibbled as he walked. -
Went to Liverpool in P.M. train.
Monday, September 27, 1880.
Shopped -
Tuesday, September 28, 1880.
Went to Stockport in P.m. - to Nevills. -
Wednesday, September 29, 1880.
Returned to Liverpool. Sailed in Parthia. at 4. P.M.
Saturday, October 9, 1880.
Arrived at Boston at 11 Am. - Parkers. -
Mrs. Barrand in call - five minutes late - Priscilla! -
Susy Robinson - Miss Pierson. - in P.M. saw Mr. Niles - Fiske - went to Frenchs. -
Dined with Priscilla & Miss Pierson. -
No word from W. -
Monday, October 11, 1880.
Custom House -
Wednesday, October 13, 1880.
Went to N. York - by way of Newport -
Thursday, October 14, 1880.
New York at 7.30. - Wavous Square Hotel -
Friday, October 15, 1880.
Moved to Berkeley - my birthday - 49 -
Saturday, October 16, 1880.
Dinner at Bottas - Tillton - Healy - Detmold - Judge Peabody & Mrs. Leawons
Warm as summer -
Sunday, October 17, 1880.
Still warm - pleasant -
Friday, October 29, 1880.
Went to Phila.
Staid with Countess
Saturday, October 30, 1880.
Returned to N.Y.
Sunday, October 31, 1880.
Spent day on Staten Island - Gilders - Sires - lovely day-
Monday, November 8, 1880.
Will returned -
Tuesday, November 9, 1880.
Lizzy - Tom Parrish & Mr. Risley to dinner -
Wednesday, November 10, 1880.
Coupe’ to Brooklyn - 2 hours - 8.20 - 10.30. -
Thursday, November 11, 1880.
Moved up to Hanover
Thursday, November 25, 1880.
Moved to Berkeley
Sunday, November 28, 1880.
In house all day - cold - frightful storm -
Monday, November 29, 1880.
Cold - in house all day - wrote - No Mans Land - & finished “Howert.” -
Tuesday, November 30, 1880.
Still shut up -
Sent to Y.C. -
Music of Margaret Naguin - $25
& “The Grace that is Gifted” 20
to Ward -
Dorothys Journey 25 -
Howert - Dec. - 35
Wednesday, December 1, 1880.
Snow on side walks - cold rain - in house all day -
Monday, December 20, 1880.
Carriage in eve to Theatre -
Tuesday, December 21, 1880.
Brooklyn in Am. - cab from 9.30 till 12.45 -
Wednesday, December 22, 1880.
Coupe in Am. 3 hours -
Friday, December 24, 1880.
Went to Kennett -
Coupe to Brooklyn in Am
2 ½ hours -
9 - to 11.30 -
Carriage to Ferry -
Monday, December 27, 1880.
Came back from Kennett
Tuesday, December 28, 1880.
Coupe to Brooklyn - 2 ½ hours -
Thursday, December 30, 1880.
Coupe in P.m. - 3.30 - to 5.30
Friday, December 31, 1880.
Coupe in Am - 3 hours -
The Franklin - about C.D.W. & Mark Twain - of Mr. T’s trip abroad -
“What for he think to make a wit? -
I like him not a little
It has not hand or foot -
When Mr. Warren make a wit. it go himself - It has hand and foot.
MEMORANDA.
Mrs Welsh - (Goodwin)
Brennan St. Boston
Mrs Floyd
319 Columbus Av. Boston
Trains for Stockport - leave Euston Station - London
9. 10. 11. 12. 2.45 -
arrive 1.58 - 2.27 - 3.47 - 4.46 - 7.16 -
Leave Stockport for from Liverpool -
9.35 - 4.20
arrive 10.55 - 5.35. -
Mile End Hall - (Chas Nevill. -
MEMORANDA.
Letters sent to Advertiser -
The Arrival -
A new Suburb of London
Gnats & camels in Eng. today -
A day in York Cathedral -
The old Vikings Ship.
The Ethniographic Museum
Partenkuchen to Mr. Abbott -
$180 due from Advertiser -
25 due from Mr. Abbott -
MEMORANDA.
To Youths Companion
1. Grey Friars Bobby
2. Dorothys Doorway -
3. India in a Day.
4. The Christiania Steam Kitchen.
5. How the poor live in Glasgow.
6. The Robin & the Sparrow - poem -
$170 due on these. -
Sept. 24 -
7. The Strasburg Cathedral.
MEMORANDA.
Black Silk Dress -
Laure & Co.
5 Rue St. Joseph -
Levy Nathan
19 Boul. Materherbes
Laces muslins -
Constant Vinton (Trunks)
27 Rue Caumartin
Aux Thois Guarties
21 Boul. de la Madeleine
Velvets silks &c. -
recommends -
Madcruouelles Ast
Dressmakers
9 Rue Dupliot
near the Madeleine
Depres
Rue Richelieu. -
Gloves.
MEMORANDA.
London-
Mrs. Brooks.
115 Jermyn St. -
St. James.
cards & card plates -
Charles Goodman -
407 Strand. --
MEMORANDA.
Mrs. Susanna Steen.
Forde
Sondfjord.
Norway.
Frau George Rutz.
Holzfabric
near P.O. -
on the corner -
Ober Ammergau
MEMORANDA.
To buy for Sally in Paris -
2 packages of Marchaie
toilet powder from Lubious -
& 2 cakes of his face soap -
for Dora - An ivory back hairbrush -
Compagnie des Indes -
80 Rue de Richelieu
W. Charpentier - (Dr. Wyman -
- Lubin. 55 Rue St. Anne -
Baths of St.
Arnaud/
Madame Errarde
17 Rue Pouthieu
Drumhaven
Pays Marse -
Faubourg St. Honorie
Bounts
Embroideres - Didow. Dieris
186 Rue de Rivoli.
MEMORANDA.
from Bergen.
Fare on Steamer to Eide -
& meals 17.50
Bill at Eide -
Night & breakfast
& dinner 8.40
Driver to VouVangen 2.0
Bill “ ” 36.0
Carriage “ ” 5.0
“ to Grodvagen 31.
Bill at G. 7.60
Fares on boat 19.60
127.10
Tips 8. -
Meals on Boat 10.
145.00
Dachauer
MEMORANDA.
Dersfvenrein
Faurgt.
CASH ACCOUNT. JANUARY.
17 Roberts $ 62.50
24 Scribner 20.
Ind. 25.
107.50
CASH ACCOUNT. FEBRUARY.
Brot over 107.50
Ind. 25.
“ 25.
(s.4) Scribners 26.
“ 100.
283.50
283.50
CASH ACCOUNT. MARCH.
Brot over
283.50
Scribner 20.
303.50
CASH ACCOUNT. APRIL.
Brot over $ 303.50
Scribners 72.00
Harpers 30.
St. Nicholas 45
450 50
CASH ACCOUNT. MAY.
Brot over -
450 00
Ind. 20
Scribner 125
Ind 100
695 00
Furs in Bergen $
22-
Old silver -
v.v. - 5 00
CASH ACCOUNT. OCTOBER.
Brot over.
695 -
Advertiser 180
C.U. 25
Atlantic 300
1200
CASH ACCOUNT. NOVEMBER.
Brot over $ 1200.00
Youths Com. 140.00
1340
CASH ACCOUNT. DECEMBER.
Tulfsvensen -
Swentolfsen -
Ch. Speinharow
Inspector of the ethnoymythical Museum at Copenhagen.
Steinhauer
Miss Williams
Duke St.
Liverpool.
Mrs. Bowles -
115 Jermyn St.
St. James.
& 13 Bury St.
CASH ACCOUNT. DECEMBER.
Brot over - $ 1340
Ind. 15
Harper 150
Advertiser 20
Scribner 25
1550
SUMMARY OF CASH ACCOUNT.
Lardene -
Mad Ecbs
23 W. 27th St.
Mad. Le Grass
570 3rd Av
between 37 & 38th
Miss Begg -
Bridge House -
Ayr.
Scotland. -
Mrs. Wm Hunt
4 Klein Rosenstrasse.
Cassel.
on entering the house -
“Welkommen” -
Fuit kualth is
Welkommen til bords
Welcome to the table
- After dinner -
The aunts say -
Tak our Maden
The bort & horten sausage
Wellbekomme
nary is blon you well
O thugaiblh bridheachas do Ghia
an ainm-san gairibh fein
Is cuirible fos a ghniomhara,
arn measg nan shagh an ceill
Give thanks to God, call on his name
to prove his deeds make known
Sing ye to him, sing psalms proclaim
his wondrous works each one.
I intended to have given you a sheetful of combs but some business has prevented me - In a word, learn - Taciturity let that be your motto. Though you had the wisdom of Newton or the wit of Swift garrulousness would lower you in the eyes of your fellow creatures.
Women have a kind of sturdy indifference which qualifies them to endure horrid ----- ---- the common run of men - but perhaps part of their ----- is coming to their short ------
Men are ---- ------ no ------ famous for being ----- consequences in their
Excerpts from two letters of Burns to his brother - now in Nubia of two old ladies in Ayr, his nieces
Sohlanbusch
Helen Hunt Jackson
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